Cleaning Swimming Pools with Your Pressure Washer

Maintaining Your Pressure Washer’s Pump

There’s more to pressure washing a swimming pool than spraying it down. Some surfaces can be damaged by the force of the water jet, and added complications arise from algae growth. These tips will help you use your Billy Goat pressure washer to get a clean, growth-free surface.

Is it Safe to Clean My Pool with a Pressure Washer?

The pool needs to be made of material that’s strong enough to withstand the force of the water jet. Plaster, gray concrete, stained concrete and exposed aggregate concrete pools can be cleaned this way, but the surface of vinyl and fiberglass pools can be damaged by your pressure washer.

Preparing the Pool for Pressure Washing

There are a few things you need to do to your pool beforehand to get the best results. Start by draining the pool and letting the surface dry out. Any surface water will be in the way of the blast from the nozzle, reducing its cleaning power. Sweep up any leaves, twigs and other debris that have collected in the pool. Finally, cover all electrical components including pumps, heaters, lights and speakers to keep water from seeping into the wiring.

Cleaning

Start with straight water, working from the tops of the walls down to the floor of the pool. It may be easier to work in sections so you can keep track of what you’ve cleaned. In most cases, the 25 degree (green) tip has enough power to strip off dirt without damaging the surface, while the 15 degree (yellow) tip can be used for stubborn areas.

With the surface dirt removed, switch to a general purpose pressure washer detergent. Work from the bottom up to prevent streaks. Let the soap soak in for the dwell time specified on the label, typically 5 to 10 minutes.

Use a low pressure nozzle to rinse off the detergent, working from the top of the walls down to the floor, pushing the residue toward the drain.

Dealing with Algae

Algae isn’t just unsightly: it creates a slick surface that can cause accidents. Your pressure washer can peel off layers of growth, but even with thorough cleaning, the pool surface will remain stained. To get rid of these spots, switch to a detergent formulated specifically for algae removal.

To prevent algae growth, the surface of the pool needs to be cleaned with bleach. Never run bleach through your pressure washer’s soap system: this chemical can corrode metal components and destroy rubber seals. Instead, apply a mix of one part bleach to four parts water by hand to the surface of the pool. Be sure to scrub areas that have high levels of algae contamination. After 10 minutes, the bleach solution can be rinsed off using a light spray from your pressure washer. This process should kill off any remaining spores, no matter what type of algae was growing in your pool.

Get Everything You Need for Your Billy Goat Straight from Your Browser

www.billygoatparts.com is more than a parts warehouse: we’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their suppliers including CAT Pumps, AR, Honda and Briggs & Stratton. That means we can ship the OEM parts you need to maintain your pressure washer to any address in the U.S. or Canada. Finding the right part is easy, too: our site can show you parts diagrams and factory descriptions for your model so you can see exactly what you’re ordering.

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Finding the Right Oil for Your Billy Goat Equipment

Subaru

How do you know you’re using the right oil in your Billy Goat? With different lubricants needed for engines, gearboxes, chains and other parts of your equipment, it can get confusing. Here’s what you need to know about oil classifications and which products will work best to keep everything lubricated.

Motor Oil

Honda, Subaru, Vanguard and Briggs & Stratton recommend using gasoline motor oil in their engines. Oils tested by the American Petroleum Institute (API) have a service symbol, nicknamed the “donut,” on the back label. This lists all the information you need to find the right oil for your engine.

The top of the donut lists the service category. Oil for gasoline engines have categories starting with “S.” New standards surpass the requirements of old standards, so it’s safe to use a modern SN oil in an engine that requires an earlier API service category like SJ. The center lists the SAE oil weight. If there is one number, that’s the viscosity of the oil over a wide range of temperatures. “W” stands for “winter.” The number in front of the “W” is the viscosity at 32ºF, while the number after the “W” is the viscosity at 212ºF. For most engines, 10W30 is recommended for most temperature ratings, while 30 weight oil can be used in warm weather.

International oils are typically ILSAC-certified. Their classifications have more focus on fuel economy, so API adds “Energy Conserving” to the bottom of the donut if the oil also meets the equivalent ILSAC certification. These oils reduce friction, but on a level that’s only noticeable in a fleet of vehicles: choosing an Energy Conserving oil won’t noticeably reduce the amount of fuel your equipment uses.

Gear Oils

API grades most gear oils using “GL” service categories. The higher the classification, the more additives the oil has to withstand high pressure and temperatures. However, these additives can damage brass, copper and other materials used in differentials and transmissions. While there are special formulations that are safe for these metals, the easiest way to ensure the safety of your equipment is to use the exact category specified in the manual. GL-3 is the most common gear oil used in Billy Goat equipment.

Oil weight is rated the same as it is with engine oil. Some transmissions and differentials require non-detergent oil. Detergent additives help keep engines clean, but they can foam up in or leave a sticky film on gears, reducing lubrication. These oils will have “Non-Detergent” clearly printed on the label.

Light Oil

Light oil is recommended for lubricating wheels, chains, and cables. This category includes several types of lubricants:

General purpose lubricating oil
Non-wax chain lubricant
Non-detergent oil
Silicone spray lubricant
Electric motor oil

Water displacers and penetrating fluids including WD-40 and Liquid Wrench are not lubricants. They can be used to get parts moving again, but they need to be followed up with a light oil to keep the part moving freely.

Grease

Grease is oil emulsified with soap to create a lubricant that stays put wherever it’s applied. Grease standards are handled by yet another industry group, the National Lubricating Grease Institute, or “NLGI.” They have a grading system based on how thick the grease is: Grade 2, recommended by Billy Goat for lubricating bearings and pivot points, is the most common grade and has a consistency similar to peanut butter. Multipurpose lithium-based grease is recommended, but better performing greases like marine and automotive formulas can be used as long as they’re still Grade 2.

Pressure Washer Pump Oil

There isn’t a specific standard for pressure washer oil. Both AR and CAT make oils specifically for their pumps, providing long-lasting protection when exposed to moisture and high temperatures. In a pinch, SAE 20 non-detergent oil or ISO 68 oil can be used, but it will need to be changed more frequently. Your pump owner’s manual will list the recommended service intervals for both standard and pump-specific oil.

Get the Parts You Need for Your Billy Goat Equipment

Billygoatparts.com is a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners, making us your one-stop shop for everything you need for your equipment including oil filters and other tune-up parts. Our search engine can find parts based on your model and serial number so you can be sure you’re ordering exactly what you need. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

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Fuel and Your Billy Goat Equipment

lawn care clean up

Today, gasoline is formulated for modern automobile engines, and those engines have less and less in common with small engines. This is causing a range of problems in outdoor equipment including corrosion and varnishing that can keep the engine from running.

Fuel With Ethanol

Ethanol is a popular fuel additive because it’s knock resistant, giving fuel manufactures a way to increase octane ratings without using MTBE, a carcinogenic additive that’s banned in several states.

Ethanol contains dissolved oxygen, and it’s hygroscopic, so it absorbs water over time. This leads to acid formation that can cause corrosion. That’s not a problem in regularly used engines, but most small engines are only used seasonally, and some Billy Goat equipment including dethatchers and debris loaders only see use during a few weeks out of the year. If ethanol is left in the fuel tank, the corrosion can damage the carburetor and ruin the jets. This has lead owners to associating all fuel problems with ethanol, but simply switching to “pure gas” isn’t enough.

Fuels Without Ethanol

If you use fuel that doesn’t contain ethanol, you’ll avoid corrosion. Unfortunately, it sets up a whole new set of problems. Since ethanol is a solvent, it slows down the formation of gums and varnish. Standard gasoline doesn’t have anything in it that does the same job, it ages quickly, leaving a sticky mess that clogs the carburetor jets and fuel lines. In the end, the engine will have the same problems, but from a different source.

Avoiding Fuel Problems

Choosing between gas with or without ethanol doesn’t matter nearly as much as handling that fuel correctly. Always start with fresh gasoline. Untreated fuel can be used up to one month from purchase if stored correctly.

If you aren’t certain that the gas will be used within one month, mix it with a stabilizer as soon as you buy it. This will slow down degradation, but it won’t stop it. Honda and Subaru recommend draining stabilized fuel from the engine if it’s over three months old, while Briggs & Stratton says their engines can be stored with stabilized fuel for up to 24 months. If you’re adding stabilized fuel before storing your equipment, let your engine run 5-10 minutes to pull it through the fuel system. Unlike other manufacturers, Briggs & Stratton gives the same recommendations for their fuel-injected engines, including the Vanguard EFI used in the DL3700V loader.

Do what you can to reduce contact between fuel, air, and water. Keeping fuel cans and tanks full and sealed will prevent moisture from collecting inside the tank and reduces air contact, slowing oxidation.

Identifying and Dealing with Stale Fuel

All fuel should be used or drained before it goes stale. Before putting the equipment in storage, drain the fuel tank and run the engine to remove any gasoline left in the carburetor. If you have some gasoline you’re not sure about, pour a little into a clear glass and compare it with some fresh fuel. If the stored fuel is noticeably darker, it’s stale.

Most Honda engines have a drain plug on the base of the carburetor, while fuel systems on other engines can usually be drained by disconnecting the fuel line from the carburetor. It may be easier to use a siphon pump to drain the tank if the engine is mounted in a hard-to-reach area. Keep in mind that there will still be stale fuel in the fuel line and carburetor. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls to remove the last of this gasoline.

Stale gas can be safely added to your car’s fuel tank. It will be diluted by the fresh fuel already inside the tank, and the fuel injectors are less sensitive to stale fuel so it will burn safely.

All the Parts You Need are Just a Few Clicks Away

Whether you need to buy a new belt or rebuild a carburetor, you can get everything you need for your Billy Goat from www.billygoatparts.com. We’re not just a Billy Goat dealer, we’re a dealer for all of their manufacturing partners including Honda and Vanguard, so we carry the parts you need to fix the engines that power your equipment. Our search engine lets you match up part numbers with exploded diagrams so you can find anything from the small seals to major components. We ship to both the U.S. and Canada.

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The Science of Aerating

The Science of Aerating

What does aerating do? Is it really necessary? How does soil become compacted in the first place? Here’s what you need to know to understand why and when you should aerate your lawn.

Weight and Turf Wear

Whether it’s from foot traffic or vehicles, placing weight on turf has three negative effects:

1. Direct wear on the blades of grass through crushing and bruising

2. Damage to the root system through soil displacement

3. Compaction, which eliminates spaces and air channels in the surface soil

All three types of damage are inter-related. If the ground is compacted, the root system won’t be deep enough to recover from soil displacement. If the root system isn’t in good shape, it can’t support the top half of the plant to repair damage. Damage the blades, and the roots can’t get the fuel they need to grow into the soil.

Why Does Soil Compact?

In nature, soil is aerated by insects, worms and other organisms that burrow through the soil. That’s fine for wilderness areas, but human activity can out-pace this natural soil care.

For residential lawns, heavy foot traffic is a major contributor. Sometimes, it’s just part of having kids play in the yard, while other times it can be avoided by adding a walkway to keep people off of the grass.

Soft cleats do less damage than the metal cleats of the past, but more aggressive designs have led to increased soil displacement and compaction, especially on golf greens. This has lead to a sort of arms race with companies introducing more aggressive designs that improve performance, only to be banned when groundskeepers have to deal with increased lawn damage. Even with this problem, most turf damage on golf courses is caused by carts.

Compacted soil is good if you’re trying to make a sturdy support for footings and foundations, but the soil compactor will need to roll over the lawn to get into the work area. Add in trucks, backhoes and other heavy equipment going to and from the work site, and newly constructed areas can end up with hardpan extending to the surface of the soil. If you’re installing sod around new buildings, it’s imperative that the underlying dirt is aerated so that new roots can penetrate and grow into the soil.

The Effects of Compacted Soil

Compaction causes non-capillary spaces to disappear while capillary spaces increase, changing how water flows through the soil. In the summer, water will drain off quickly, leading to drought injuries. In the winter, the soil will hold water, keeping temperatures lower for longer. This extends dormancy in warm season grasses. Compacted surface soil also causes water to pool instead of flowing into the ground, causing direct damage to plants and promoting mold growth.

Wear tolerance is usually solved by overseeding with a resistant grass variety, but it’s also influenced by compaction. Without a good root system and support for the grass’ crowns or runners, the leaves take longer to recover from damage no matter how hearty the variety is.

Access to oxygen is needed for root growth and to support microorganisms that digest thatch and break down materials into plant-usable nutrients. When spaces inside the soil are removed, this oxygen diffusion decreases.

Some weeds thrive in compacted soil, including dandelions and nettles, pushing out turf grass. Aerating reduces the need for herbicides.

Core vs Liquid Aeration

A core or spike aerator only penetrates the first few inches of soil. This is where most compaction happens, and it’s the layer of soil that has the greatest effect on the health of grass root systems.

Liquid aeration uses chemicals to soak into the soil and break it up. This treatment can reach deeper than core aeration, but it’s not effective for surface compaction and can take several applications to be effective. Even if liquid aeration is needed, the lawn will usually need to be core aerated first to get the chemicals to penetrate the soil.

Keep Your Billy Goat Aerator In Action

These problems can be solved with a couple passes by your Billy Goat aerator, and with help from www.billygoatparts.com, you can be sure your equipment is ready to work. We’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners. That means you can get parts for your aerator and its engine shipped to your door from one source no matter where you are in the U.S. or Canada.

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Everything You Need to Know About Hydrostatic Drive

Hydrostatic Drive

Hydrostatic drive systems have been a staple of riding mowers and other large equipment for decades, but they’ve only recently reached walk-behind equipment including Billy Goat’s aerators and brushcutters. What are the advantages? Do they require any maintenance? What kinds of problems can they have? Here’s what you need to know if you’re considering or already own equipment with one of these transmissions.

How Does It Work?

A hydrostatic drive uses two main components: a pump and a motor.

The pump has a circular cylinder block, a set of pistons and a wash plate. The pistons mount to the wash plate using ball joints. This plate sits at an angle. As the plate and cylinder block spin, the pistons move up and down inside the block, pumping the hydraulic fluid.

The motor uses the same parts as the pump, but the angle of the wash plate can be changed to control the motion and speed of the output shaft. Tilt it one direction, and the shaft spins clockwise. Tilt it the other way, and it will spin counter-clockwise. Change the amount of tilt, and the pistons will move more or less with each rotation, trading motor speed for torque or vice versa.

Billy Goat uses “close coupled” hydrostatic transmissions. This design puts the pump and motor into a single unit that shares the same valve body. This makes the system compact and eliminates high-pressure hoses, the most common source of problems in hydrostatic drive systems. These units also have a built-in differential, making them transaxles. The wheels bolt up directly to the axles, and the engine powers the pump using a belt drive connected to a pulley on top of the transaxle case.

Why Use a Hydrostatic Transmission?

Speed is controlled entirely by the position of the hydraulic motor’s wash plate. This lets the drive speed be completely independent of the engine speed so the tool can be driven at full speed no matter how fast the equipment is moving. It also allows for infinite speed adjustment while in motion, letting the operator match speed to the terrain without having to stop and change gears.

Efficiency has improved tremendously in the past decade, making this lawn mower staple practical in smaller machines. While older designs greatly increased weight and power demands where they were used, today there’s little in the way of a weight or power penalty when choosing a hydrostatic transmission over a geared transmission

Which Models Use Hydrostatic Drive?

Currently, Billy Goat makes 6 pieces of equipment with a hydrostatic transaxle:

– OS901 Hydrostatic Overseeder
– AE1300H Hydro Aerator
– PL2500 PLUGR Hydro-Drive Aerator
– Next Gen 18” Hydro Drive Sod Cutter
– 18” Hydro-Drive Sod Cutter for Golf Applications
– BC26HHEU Outback Brushcutter

How Do I Maintain My Transaxle?

The Tuff Torq transaxles Billy Goat use have an aluminum case to dissipate heat. If this becomes caked in dirt or mud, the pump and motor can overheat. Check the case if your equipment is coated in mud, and make cleaning a regular part of maintenance.

A failing transmission can slip if damaged, but this symptom is usually caused by problems with the belt between the transmission and the engine. As with any belt drive, the belt should be replaced if it shows signs of cracking or tearing, or it has stretched to the point that the idler pulley can’t take up the slack.

The transaxle should last as long as the equipment without needing a fluid change. If you do need to change the fluid due to contamination or a leaking seal, it’s highly recommended that you use Tuff Torq’s own fluid, as it has the additives needed to deliver this long fluid life. For most models, the company recommends using 10W30 diesel motor oil as an alternative fluid, not hydraulic fluid. They specify Class CC or CD oil, which is a very old API service classification. Any off-the-shelf CJ-4, CI-4 or CH-4 oil will meet these service requirements.

How Do I Identify the Transaxle?

The serial number is printed on a flat metal surface either on the top or front of the case.

Get the Parts You Need for Your Billy Goat

Billygoatparts.com isn’t just an online parts warehouse: we’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat and Tuff Torq, so when you order from us, you’ll always receive quality OEM replacements. Factory parts diagrams and descriptions are built into our search engine, making it easy to find exactly what you need, and we can ship your order to any address in the U.S. or Canada.

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Using Your Pressure Washer for Summer Cleanup

Cleaning Buildings with a Pressure Washer Billy Goat

Your Billy Goat pressure washer may be primarily used for cleaning concrete, siding, and cars, but that’s not all it can do. Using the right techniques, you can use your power washer to clean the things you use most during the summer including your barbecue grill, your patio furniture, and your weekend vehicles.

Cleaning Your Grill

Disconnect the fuel supply. If your grill uses propane, disconnect the tank and move it out of the area. If it’s supplied by a natural gas line, disconnect the line and move the grill away from the line. Electric starters should be disconnected to prevent the connections from shorting.

Remove loose dirt by spraying the grill with a 40-degree spray tip.

Soap down the grill a pressure washer-safe degreaser. Cover every surface and let the detergent some time to work: typical dwell times are between two and 5 minutes.

Spray the grill again using the 40-degree tip. This should get most of the grease and dirt off.

Repeat the process, spraying oily areas with detergent, then spraying with water to peel off stubborn grease and dirt.

Once the grill is clean, go over it again with water one last time to wash off any remaining soap.

Let the grill dry for at least 24 hours before reconnecting the fuel and electric supply.

Patio Furniture

Remove the cushions and set them aside to keep them from getting wet.

Use a general purpose detergent for removing tough stains. When spraying, work from the top down. Streaking will be minimal, and this helps flush out dirt that runs down into corners on the furniture.

Use a 40-degree tip for painted surfaces. A 25-degree tip is safe for removing stubborn dirt on unpainted plastic surfaces. If there are spots that are still not clean, you may need to switch to a brush, soap and hot water.

Boats

Washing a boat is just like washing a car: you should let the detergent do the heavy lifting and use a 40-degree nozzle to rinse off dirt without damaging the paint. Before cleaning, be sure to remove any loose equipment like fenders and ropes.

Soap designed for cars will work, but detergents made specifically for boat cleaning will work better. This type of cleaner will have additives designed to remove algae build-up. Dwell times are longer than other detergents with most formulas needing 5-10 minutes to work. If possible, move the boat into the shade so the detergent won’t dry up before it’s time to wash it off.

When spraying around decals, double the distance between the spray tip and the boat and spray directly at the surface. If you spray at an angle, you risk peeling up the decals around the edges.

ATVs and UTVs

Let the engine and exhaust cool completely before cleaning. If the engine is already up to operating temperature, this can take up to half an hour. Avoid spraying the engine or intake. If water gets inside the engine, it will ruin the oil and in extreme cases can cause piston destroying hydrolock.

Unlike patio furniture, it’s usually better to keep the seat padding on as it usually covers the battery, wiring and other water-sensitive components. Avoid spraying the seats and any exposed electrical components.

If your vehicle has a chain drive, clean and lubricate it before using your pressure washer. Spraying the chain can push out lubricant, resulting in increased wear.

Use the washer to remove caked on mud and dirt before applying car soap. Dwell time is important as it lets the soap separate bugs and other sticky materials from the surface. You may need to rinse and soap bug-covered parts two or three times to get them all off.

As with boats, any decals should be sprayed head-on with the nozzle at least two feet from the surface to prevent them from peeling off of the body panels.

Get the Parts You Need to Keep Your Equipment Running

Did you lose one of the nozzles? Is the engine due for a tune-up? If you need parts for your pressure washer or anything else from Billy Goat, you can get it from www.billygoatparts.com. We’re not just a Billy Goat dealer, we’re also a dealer for every manufacturer they work with including CAT Pumps, AR Pumps, Honda and Briggs & Stratton. From air filters to hoses, we can ship the parts you need to your door whether you live in the U.S. or Canada.

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Making Sense of Pressure Washer Terminology

Maintaining Your Pressure Washer’s Pump

Shopping for a pressure washer can be confusing. What are PSI, GPM and CU, and how do they affect cleaning? Which type of pump should you get? What do the nozzles do? Here’s what you need to know about these terms so you can pick the right equipment for your needs.

Pressure, Rate and Cleaning Power

The cleaning power of a pressure washer comes from the pressure and rate of water it sprays. This is expressed as Cleaning Units (CU), which are calculated by multiplying PSI by GPM.

Pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (PSI.) Pressure will vary depending on the nozzle used, but this rating is always the output when used with a nozzle that has a #4 (0.052”/1.32mm) orifice. This is the standard nozzle size used in most small to medium-sized pressure washers.

Rate is stated as gallons per minute (GPM.) This is the maximum volume the pump can move over time, but it’s limited by the water supply. The typical outdoor faucet pumps out water at a pressure of 40-60 PSI. Attached to a 25 foot, ½ inch diameter hose, this is enough to deliver up to 24 gallons per minute. Switch to a 100-foot hose, and the added resistance to flow reduces the supply to around 6 GPM. To get the most flexibility with this water supply, portable pressure washers are built to run high PSI to make up for low flow rates.

How does this apply when comparing pressure washers? Let’s say you’re looking at Billy Goat’s PW37A0H and the PW40S0H power washers. At first glance, there doesn’t seem to be much difference: the PW37 makes 3,700 PSI, while the PW40 makes 4,000 PSI. That’s less than a 10% difference between these two models. However, the PW37 pumps 3.5 GPM while the PW40 pumps 4 GPM. That works out to 12,950 CU and 16,000 CU, so the PW40 is actually around 25% more effective than the PW 37.

Pump Types

Two types of pumps dominate the residential and small commercial market: axial cam and triplex.

An axial cam pump uses an impeller to pull in water from the inlet and push it out of the housing. This type of pump is driven directly by the crankshaft. These pumps are cheap, but their ability to generate pressure is limited, and they have a short service life.

A triplex pump uses pistons to pull in water from the supply line and push it out into the high-pressure hose. By using three pistons that push and pull at different times, pulsations are kept to a minimum. These pumps can connect to the engine using a gear drive for greater pumping speed, and they last several times longer than axial pumps. All Billy Goat pressure washers use triplex pumps made by Annovi Reverberi or CAT.

Nozzles

Each nozzle has a code stamped on it. The first two digits indicate the angle of spray, while the next two or three digits indicate the orifice size. These nozzles also come in standard colors for each angle of spray, making them easy to identify at a glance. Here’s what you’ll get with a Billy Goat pressure washer:

00 (Red) – This 0-degree nozzle is used for maximum power, busting through caked-on material and heavy build-up. However, it’s so powerful that it can damage soft surfaces.

15 (Yellow) – This is often referred to as a “chiseling” tip. It’s useful for peeling off stubborn surface layers including paint and mildew, but it’s too strong for general cleaning.

25 (Green) – A wider spray lets this tip move loose contaminants and debris quickly. It’s great for removing mud, grass clippings and leaves.

40 (White) – A wide, gentle spray makes this nozzle a good choice for sensitive surfaces including cars, windows, and wooden decks.

65 (Black) – On Billy Goat pressure washers, this is a “soaping” nozzle: the low-pressure spray creates a siphon effect to pull soap through the detergent hose. It doesn’t provide enough pressure to physically remove dirt, but it does deposit soap over a wide area for fast coverage.

Getting Parts for Your Pressure Washer

Billygoatparts.com is a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners including AR and CAT pumps so you can get anything you need for your pressure washer all at once. Our site has built-in factory parts diagrams and descriptions so you can find the right part to fix your equipment, and we can ship those parts to any address in the U.S. and Canada.

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TKV Self-Propelled Vacuum

TKV Self-Propelled Vacuum

Do you need a combination lawn vacuum and chipper, but find residential offerings a little lacking? Billy Goat’s TKV self-propelled vacuum has the performance you expect from one of the leaders in lawn cleanup equipment while still being simple enough for home use.

Power

The TKV vacuum is powered by a Honda GSV190. This engine combines features from their residential GC and commercial GX engines. A cast iron cylinder liner and two-stage air filtration system ensure a long engine life, while an overhead camshaft and internal timing belt make this engine quiet and efficient. It’s both EPA and CARB certified, so it’s legal to use anywhere in the U.S. or Canada. A self-propulsion system is built into the vacuum, so it’s easy to move, even when it has a fully loaded bag.

Vacuuming

Debris is drawn in through a 27-inch wide nozzle. The height can be adjusted by turning a knob on the base, letting the TKV be used to clean up lawns or paved areas including driveways and parking lots.

Inside, a 5 blade impeller with serrated edges chops up debris, reducing them up to 12:1. This compaction reduces the amount of waste generated, saving money on disposal costs. Together, the engine and impeller are able to pull in air at a rate of 1,700 cubic feet per minute.

Bagging

After passing through the impeller chamber, debris drops into a 40-gallon bag. The top of this bag is surrounded by a dust skirt to capture fine particles, keeping both the surrounding area and the operator clean. A flap is built into the rear of the bag for quick emptying. The bag still uses the same simple retention system of other Billy Goat vacuums, making it easy to remove and install when it needs to be cleaned.

Chipping

The chipper shoot handles branches up to two inches thick, cutting the wood with a set of blades before sending them through the main housing where leaves are broken up by the impeller and pushed into the bag. A storage bracket is built into the handle to carry a lopper so you can trim branches to fit the machine.

Accessories

The hose kit uses a clear hose and metal nozzle to get into areas the vacuum can’t reach. This is perfect for cleaning up areas around garden beds and bushes. The caster kit makes the vacuum easy to maneuver in more open spaces, and it reduces tire wear on hard surfaces. If you regularly use your TKV for cleaning pavement, adding the nozzle wear kit will keep you from scraping up your vacuum.

For operation in sandy areas, Billy Goat offers a liner sleeve that protects the impeller chamber from abrasion. Need to pick up fine dust? The felt bag traps small particles to get a clean finish.

Get the Parts and Accessories You Need for Your Billy Goat

From the flexible TKV to the hard surface QV, if it’s made by Billy Goat, you can get everything you need for it from www.billygoatparts.com. We’re not just a parts warehouse: we’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners including Honda Engines. Our site has built-in factory information including parts diagrams and descriptions so you can be sure your order will be compatible with your equipment. We can ship parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada.

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Towing Your Billy Goat Equipment

Towing Your Billy Goat Equipment

Most Billy Goat owners are commercial users, but even if you have a light duty model, you’ll need to move it from time to time. These tips will help you move your equipment safely and legally whether you’re carrying it in a trailer or it’s mounted to the trailer itself.

Trailer Safety and Legal Requirements

Billy Goat utility trailers and CustomFit trailers are both designed to be towed at speeds up to 55 mph. The visibility requirements for your trailer will depend on what state you live in and where you drive.

If you ever take the trailer onto a highway, it has to meet Department of Transportation requirements. Trailers less than 80 inches wide and 30 feet long must have stop lights, tail lights, front marker lights, turn signals, reflectors and a license plate light. Most trailer brake lights and side marker lights have built-in reflectors, including the ones offered on Billy Goat’s skid mount trailers.

On other roads, you’re legally required to meet state regulations, which can vary widely. In some states, you may need all the DOT-required equipment, others may only require a rear reflector, and many states fall somewhere in between. As a general rule, if there’s any chance that your trailer can obscure your vehicle’s brake lights, you should have trailer lights installed, even if they aren’t legally required.

Towable aerators are categorized as “instrument of husbandry.” These tractor-towed farming devices are exempt from trailer lighting and reflector requirements, but they will usually need to have a triangular slow-moving vehicle (SMV) reflector mounted on the back to meet local legal requirements.

Tying Down Equipment

Most Billy Goat equipment is designed with tie-down points. These will either be teardrop-shaped loops or exposed frame areas. Tying down on these points will be more secure than running straps over the wheels.

Heavier equipment should be placed toward the front of the trailer. If you’re doing general landscaping work, the heaviest piece of equipment you’ll have will usually be your mower. When it comes to walk-behind equipment, aerators and brushcutters are the heaviest. When in doubt, check the specifications located at the front of your owner’s manual.

If your equipment has a folding handle, lowering it will lower the center of gravity, making it more stable.

Loading Wheeled Blowers

If your blower has a front caster wheel, it needs to be locked into place when transporting. To do this, pull on the ring on the side of the wheel mount and rotate it until it’s vertical. Swivel the wheel until the ring moves back into the mount, locking the wheel into place. This mechanism lets the wheel lock into four positions: front, rear, left or right.

Billy Goat offers a quick hold down kit that can keep the blower secured on the trailer by itself. This kit uses a foot-operated latch that grips a bolt that is installed on the blower. To secure your blower, roll it over the hold down and tilt it back. Push the hold down lever, then lower the blower. The bolt should line up with the slot in the hold down. Release the lever, and the latch will close the top of the slot.

Loading Pressure Washers

Storing the high-pressure hose and wand separately will make the pressure washer easier to transport and prevent accidents involving a tangled or pinched hose.

Transporting Debris Loaders

The skid mount is designed to be permanently bolted down whether you’re adding it to a trailer or attaching it to a CustomFit trailer kit. Always secure the nozzle to the loader and lock the support boom before transit. If there’s any possibility the nozzle hose will come in contact with the ground, remove it from the loader and store it separately.

Getting Parts and Accessories for Your Billy Goat Equipment

Looking for trailer parts or want to add a hold down for your blower? Billygoatparts.com can ship what you need to your door. Our search engine lets you find parts based on your model, showing you factory parts descriptions and diagrams so you can be sure what you order will be compatible. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

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Billy Goat Pressure Washer Troubleshooting

Getting Your Pressure Washer Out of Storage

Is your Billy Goat pressure washer not delivering the performance you expect? Are you having trouble getting it to run or spray consistently? Before you spend money on a new pump or major engine repair, check these common, easy-to-repair causes for common issues.

Pump Chatter and Surging

While there are several reasons that your pressure washer could experience either of these symptoms, they’re most commonly caused by water supply problems.

– Make sure there’s plenty of water reaching the pump. Your owner’s manual will specify the required flow rate needed for your pressure washer.
– Make sure the hose isn’t kinked.
– Check for leaks in supply fittings.
– Make sure the filter screen for the inlet is in place and clean.
– Use cool water. Water that’s above 100ºF can cause problems with pump operation.

The Engine Won’t Start

– Check the spark plug wire. With the hose moving back and forth around the pump, it’s easy to knock it off of the spark plug.

– Both Honda and Vanguard have a sensor that will shut off the ignition if the oil level is too low. If the oil level is low, adding oil will reactive the ignition.

– Make sure there’s gas in the fuel tank. Starting problems are often caused by stale fuel. Make sure you’re using fuel purchased within the last month, or stabilized fuel purchased within the last three months.

Pulsing Water Pressure

– Air in the pump is likely interfering with the pump mechanism. Shut off the engine, but leave the water running. Hold down the trigger on the wand to let water flow through the system and purge the air inside the pump.

– An obstruction somewhere in the wand or line is keeping the flow from being consistent. Use a needle to clean out the nozzle and flush the wand with vinegar to remove mineral deposits. Make sure the inlets for the wand and high-pressure hose are free of debris.

Water Pressure Spikes

– Check the unloader valve. This recirculates excess water back into the pump and can cause jumps in water pressure if it’s jammed or set incorrectly. The manual for your pump should have adjustment instructions.

The Pump Won’t Draw Detergent

– Only the low-pressure white tip will draw from the detergent system.
– Make sure the end of the detergent hose is fully submerged and the filter is clean.
– If your pressure washer has a valve to adjust the detergent mix, make sure it’s open.
– Only use detergents approved for use with a pressure washer. Thick detergents may need to be diluted to flow through the system.

Water is Leaking from the Pump

– If the thermal valve is active, it will leak water to relieve pressure. Shut off the engine and let the pump cool for 5 minutes or so.

– Check the bolts on the pump casing. If they’re loose, the water can break the seal, causing a leak.

Leaks Along the Hose or Inlet

– Make sure the hoses are fully connected and the rubber O-rings at each connection are in good shape. If the hose or wand itself is leaking, replace it immediately. High-pressure spray from these holes can cause serious injury and property damage.

When You Need Parts, Visit Billy Goat Parts

Billygoatparts.com is a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their partners including Honda, Briggs & Stratton, AR Pumps, and CAT Pumps. Our site can show you factory exploded diagrams and manufacturer descriptions so you can be sure you’re buying what you need from the smallest O-ring to the largest assembly. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

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