Goodbye Subaru: Small Engine Production Comes to an End

 SubaruWhen you buy a piece of Billy Goat equipment, you often get to choose from a variety of engines made by Briggs & Stratton, Honda or Subaru. However, one of those options is going away. Late last year, Subaru announced that they were pulling out of the small engine market. What does this mean for owners of Subaru-powered equipment, and what are your alternatives if you’re looking for new equipment?

Why Did Subaru Power Shut Down?

Subaru Power may not have been the biggest engine manufacturer, but they found a niche with their EX-Series engines. Compact, efficient and unfailingly reliable, this engine was one of the few real competitors to Honda’s ubiquitous GX-Series.

Subaru also has divisions that build aerospace parts and alternative energy devices. However, these pale in comparison to their automotive division. With a decade of record growth behind them, Subaru’s vehicle manufacturing capabilities have been pushed to the limit. Meanwhile, like other automakers, they’re trying to make the transition to electric power. Together with Mazda and Toyota, they’re developing new electric powertrains that should be in production in the next four years. With their other divisions committed to supplying their manufacturing partners for years to come, the only way to free up resources for their booming car business was to shut down the small engine division.

Can I Still Get Parts for My Engine? What About the Warranty?

Subaru handed off the division to Industrial Power Products of America, Inc. This distributor already has a network in place to support Yamaha industrial products, and they’ll use this to supply Subaru Power dealers with parts. The company will also continue to honor engine warranties. As part of the deal, the company even took over Subaru’s websites, so you’ll be able to download owners manuals and other information just like before. This new parts and warranty coverage includes Subaru products as well as older Robin and Subaru Robin engines.

What are My Alternatives to Subaru-Powered Billy Goat Equipment?

Like many manufacturers, Billy Goat is rolling out updates models with engines from other manufacturers. With engine support still available, a Subaru-powered model is still a good option if it’s available, but there are plenty of other options that can fit your needs.

F6 Force Wheeled Blower
Subaru: F601S
Briggs & Stratton: F601X
Vanguard: F601V

While other Subaru models are still on the market, the F601S is already being phased out. The F601X uses a Professional Series engine. Despite the name, it’s a consumer-level design, making it a good choice for residential users who want the power of a Force blower without the cost of a commercial engine. For professional users, the F610V comes with a 6.5 hp engine from Briggs & Stratton’s commercial Vanguard line.

F9 Force Wheeled Blower
Subaru: F902S, F902SPS
Honda: F902H

A Honda GX270 provides similar output to the outgoing Subaru EX-powered F902S. Billy Goat has not yet released a version of this blower with the F902SPS’s self-propulsion system.

Debris Loaders
Subaru: DL1401SE
Vanguard: DL1801V, DL1801VE

The DL18 uses V-twin engines with more power than the DL14, but they’re still sold at a similar price point. If you don’t mind having a pull start engine, the DL1801V costs only slightly more than the DL1401SE. If you like the idea of having the DL14’s electric start, get the DL1801VE.

Subaru: DL2500S
Vanguard: DL3500V
The difference between the DL25 and DL35 is much wider than the DL 14 and 18. In this application, choosing the Vanguard V-Twin brings with it an extra 10 hp. If you don’t need something that powerful, you may want to consider the DL18.

Where Can I Get Parts for My Billy Goat’s Engine?

Whether your equipment is powered by an engine from Subaru, Honda or Briggs & Stratton, you can get parts for it at We are a certified dealer for Billy Goat and the manufacturers who make their engines, and we will continue to support Subaru Power products. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

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Cleaning Buildings with a Pressure Washer

Cleaning Buildings with a Pressure Washer Billy Goat

A Billy Goat pressure washer is great for cleaning pavement and vehicles, but what about buildings? While it may not be as straight forward due to the range of materials used, pressure washing makes it easy to make structure look better or get them ready for paint. Here’s what you need to know to get the best results.

Preparing the Area for Pressure Washing

Steps need to be taken to protect the area from water and detergent:

– Watering nearby plants will keep them from absorbing soapy water
– Exterior lights, power outlets, and other electrical devices should be covered to prevent contact with water.
– Electrical power to the area should be shut off to prevent shorts.

For the best results, use a long-handled broom to remove cobwebs and loosen heavy dirt before spraying.

General Use

Always use biodegradable detergents when working outdoors to prevent damage from runoff. When you clean, you’re also mixing in dirt, oil and a variety of other chemicals into the water from the surfaces you’re cleaning. Depending on local regulations, you may also need to direct runoff away from storm drains even if your detergent is environmentally safe.

Start with a wide nozzle, spraying two feet from the surface. Slowly work your way forward until you get the pressure you want. If you’re a foot away and not getting results, switch to a narrower tip. Pointing the tip at a slight angle will help push dirt away from the surface.


The strength of brick can vary significantly from location to location, even if the brick itself seems to be the same. Bricks become more porous and brittle as they age, so extra care should be taken on older buildings.

Mortar is softer than brick, making it easier to damage. Cement blocks are usually cemented together with high strength Type S mortar, while bricks are laid with Type S or softer Type N mortar.

Sand-faced brick has a surface that can peel off, changing the brick color. It may be better to hand wash the brick or use very light water pressure, relying mostly on the cleaning power of the detergent.

Bricks and blocks are porous, letting them absorb dirt and grime that will leach out during the cleaning process. To help move things along, pre-soak the brick with a cleaning agent before spraying. The first pass will lift dirt out of the pores, leaving a dirty surface. Follow this up with a second pass using a wider spray tip to remove surface debris without leaching out more material.

Vinyl Siding

While mold growth indicates a moisture problem, even dry vinyl can accumulate mold, giving the surface a lightly dusted, green-tinged look. When cleaning vinyl siding, the goal should be to both remove the surface spores and kill off any remaining mold through chemical means.

While homemade mixtures using oxygenated bleach or vinegar are effective when hand washing, these chemicals may damage your power washer’s pump. Instead, pick up a pressure washer detergent made specifically for vinyl cleaning. These formulas will include a fungicide that will help keep the mold at bay. Follow the directions on the bottle, pre-soaking the surface before blasting off the dirt and mold.


Solutions formulated to work on wood and vinyl can damage metal siding. Most general purpose pressure washer formulas are safe on metal, but be sure to check the label before use.

Overhead doors are not watertight. Clean them by hand to avoid spraying water through to the inside of the building.


Make repairs to nails and rotted board before pressure washing. If the top surface isn’t sealed, water can work its way through the wood to the inside of the wall. This is another material that should be cleaned with a specialized detergent. As long as light water pressure is used, deck and fence cleaner will leave the varnish intact while lifting off oil, dirt, and sap.


In the US, lead was banned from use paint in 1978. If you’re working with a building that was constructed before this ban, have the paint tested to make sure cleaning is safe.

A 15 or 25-degree nozzle will safely remove chalking paint from the surface without damaging the underlying structure. Removing this layer will both improve the look of the paint and make it ready for a coat of fresh paint.

Getting Parts for Your Billy Goat Pressure Washer

Missing a nozzle? Need to replace a hose or do some engine work before you start cleaning? is a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners including AR Pumps and Briggs & Stratton so we can ship anything you need to any address in the U.S. or Canada.

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Construction Cleanup with Billy Goat Vacuums, Blowers and Pressure Washers

Billy Goat MV

Land cleanup isn’t limited to landscaping: from groundbreaking to putting in the final touches, a clean work area is critical in construction. Billy Goat makes a range of equipment that can save time and improve the quality of your work.

Dust Collectors, Silica and New OSHA Regulations

OSHA has instituted new standards for respirable silica that they started enforcing late last year for construction. Silica is found in almost everything made from the earth’s crust from concrete to glass. It’s a recognized carcinogen, and inhaling silica dust it is like stabbing your lungs with tiny knives. The scar tissue left behind by these tiny cuts reduces lung function, causing a condition called silicosis. With enough exposure, this damage can be disabling or lethal. Workers who experience frequent light exposure can suffer from silicosis after 15 to 20 years, while heavy exposure can cut that time to 5 years or fewer.

Dust needs to be at least 40 microns to be visible, but respirable silica dust can be as small as three microns. This dust is present whenever concrete, stone, bricks, mortar or concrete is drilled or crushed. To remove the silica from the work area, it needs to be removed with a dust extractor with a HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) filter. A shop vac is not a dust extractor, and neither is the QV Quietvac, despite its dust collection system. If you’ve been using one of these devices for cleanup around high dust applications, you need to upgrade to a HEPA vacuum, not only to meet regulations but to protect yourself and your coworkers.


A HEPA vacuum can handle tiny particles, but for general use, the QV Quietvac offers more power and flexibility when cleaning flat, paved surfaces. The head is designed to skim across cement and tarmac, lifting debris that would be missed by a lawn vac. It also has a hose that can be used to reach corners for thorough cleaning. Since it doesn’t have a heavy filtration system, it can pick up anything from leaves to cans, and the impeller can compact this debris for less frequent bag emptying.

This vacuum also has a dust sock that can be fitted over the bag. This traps fine particles, capturing dirt and keeping both the operator and the surrounding area clean when used in dry conditions.
Need more flexibility? The KV and MV multi-surface blowers don’t have the dust sock, but they will work on paved and unpaved surfaces.

Leaf Blowers and Debris Loaders

When you need to clean off a large area quickly, it’s hard to beat a walk-behind leaf blower. With at least 7 times the power of a backpack leaf blower, these units are ideal for moving large quantities of organic debris including wood chips left behind by tree removal.

In rural areas, these materials can be buried or burned, but in most cases, the debris needs to be disposed of. A debris loader uses an impeller design similar to a lawn vacuum, just scaled up to move massive amounts of material from the ground to a truck bed or trailer. Billy Goat makes models that can be used on anything from small pickups to large commercial vehicles.

Pressure Washers

If it’s outdoors, it can be cleaned with a pressure washer. While useful for washing away dirt from building extensions, they really shine at cleaning up concrete. The force of the water stream helps cleaners penetrate the porous surface of the pavement, removing dirt to create a clean work surface.

When selecting a detergent, keep in mind that chemicals that can remove oil stains can damage concrete. Biodegradable chemicals may be required in the area you’re operating in, as well as diversions away from storm drains to prevent cleaning chemicals and any from entering waterways.

Cut Job Times By Keeping Your Equipment In Good Running Condition

When you need to work on your Billy Goat equipment, you can get everything you need from We’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners including engine and pump manufacturers, so you know you’ll always get quality OEM parts. Our site can show you factory diagrams and parts descriptions for your model and engine, making it easy to find exactly what you need. We can ship your order to any location in the USA or Canada.

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Controlling Spring Weeds With Your Billy Goat Seed Spreader

Controlling Spring Weeds With Your Billy Goat Seed Spreader

Overseeding is popular in landscaping because it keeps turf covered in young grass, giving it a thicker, more lush look than lawns with mature plants. However, it can also be an effective technique for reducing weeds. These tips will help you maximize grass growth so weeds can’t get a foothold.

Get a Soil Test Before You Fertilize

For your new grass to succeed, you need to make the soil has a good balance of nutrients to promote growth. Getting the right mix will increase grass growth while discouraging weeds that thrive in poor soil.

Overseed Early

If drainage is good, you can overseed in the early spring, letting the grass get a foothold before weeds germinate and turf wear becomes an issue. Keep in mind that severe rains can wash away seeds, and freezes can damage them. If you’re not sure if the weather will hold, you may want to wait.

Read the Instructions

How much seed should you be putting down? Check the instructions on the seed bag. There’s no need to go for the intensive overseeding of a golf course, nor should you go light in areas that already have grass. Getting the right drop rate is easy: your Billy Goat overseeder has instructions on the inner flap of the hopper, and the rate is set using a single dial on the front of the machine.

Minimize Soil Disruption

Your new seed needs to make good contact with the soil to germinate, but getting that contact can help weed seeds reach the soil. Bag lawn clippings the last time you mow to remove any germinating weeds. If you need to dethatch beforehand, let the lawn fully recover before overseeding. Your Billy Goat overseeder will do the rest: it uses a verticutting system, making thin slices that keep anything but the newly dropped grass seed penetrate the soil.

Use the Right Seed for Fast Growth

Bermuda grass is the fastest growing grass seed, but due to different climate and soil conditions across the country, it’s not always the best solution. Choose seed based on how its weather, disease, drought and erosion resistance characteristics match your local climate and conditions. If you need help, contact your local extension office: they’ll know exactly what will work in your area.

Keep Herbicides that Won’t Attack New Grass

Most broadleaf treatments are pre-emergent, and they have no problem working on the seeds you want to grow as well as the ones you don’t. If you don’t have enough time to delay overseeding after applying a herbicide, go for a grass safe chemical like 2, 4-D or Trycopyr.

Use the Right Techniques when Watering

There are two good reasons to water early in the morning:

Plants are designed to absorb water better at this time to take advantage of dew that has collected over the night. As the sun goes up, the grass will seal itself to retain moisture when faced with increasing heat.

Fast evaporation during sunlight hours keeps plants dry once they’ve had their fill of water. This discourages the growth of plant diseases.

Always balance watering with rainfall. If the soil isn’t allowed to dry out completely after watering, the roots will have shallow growth. This is the most common cause of persistent weed problems after mower scalping.

Overseed, Even if Conditions Aren’t Ideal

Aside from getting a lush lawn, overseeding takes over spaces where weeds can grow. While you may encourage broadleaf growth if you wait too long to overseed, there will still be fewer weeds to deal with than if you’d done nothing.

Keep Your Equipment Working at its Best

If you need some parts for your overseeder or want to add seeding capability to your power rake, go to As a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners, we’re able to offer accessories and OEM parts for everything on your equipment. Our site can show you parts lists and factory diagrams for your model, making it easy to get exactly what you need. We ship to both the U.S. and Canada.

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Maintaining Your Grazor

Maintaining Your Grazor

Winter is ending, and that means customers will be looking to have their driveways recoated to survive the cold and snow at the end of this year. Here’s what you need to know to keep your Grazor concrete cleaner running so you can ready driveways and sidewalks for seal coating.

Maintenance Schedule

Concrete Cleaner Maintenance
Every use: Check for excess vibration
Every 5 hours or daily: Check for loose, damaged or worn parts
Every 25 hours: Inspect belt, lubricate wheels and grease brush arm mechanism

Engine Maintenance

Before each use: Check engine oil level and air filter
First month or 20 hours: Change engine oil
Every three months or 50 hours: Clean the air filter, check the spark plug (Subaru only)
Every 6 months or 100 hours (Honda only): Clean the sediment cup, check the spark plug and, if installed, spark arrester.
Every 200 hours (Subaru only): Replace air filter, clean sediment cup and check spark plug electrodes
Every year or 300 hours: Replace spark plug and air filter

Changing the Brush

1. Disconnect the spark plug cap

2. Remove the brush guard, which is held on by two screws.

3. Using a heavy cloth, hold onto the brush. Use a ¾ inch wrench to turn the nut holding the brush to the machine counter-clockwise.

4. Inspect the washer for wear and replace as needed.

5. Install the new brush in reverse order. Be sure to use the nylon bushing that came with the new brush, even if the old one has little wear.

Changing the Drive Belt

1. Disconnect the spark plug cap

2. Using two ½ inch wrenches, unscrew the bolts and nuts on the brush guard and front pulley guard. Remove these guards.

3. Use a 3/8 inch wrench to remove the three bolts on the rear pulley guard. Remove this guard.

4. Remove the belt. On some older models, you may need to change the brush position to get the belt off. Put the brush in the “Store” position, then slide the belt off of the front pulley. Move the brush to the “3” position, and slide the belt off of the rear pulley.

5. Install the new belt in reverse order, reinstalling the guards once it’s fitted.

Changing the Pulleys

Always change the pulleys in pairs to decrease belt wear and ensure the service life of your equipment. Follow the instructions above for removing the belt. Once the belt is off, do the following:

1. Loosen the set screws on the pulleys using a 5/32 inch Allen wrench.

2. Slide the pulley off of the shafts

3. Slide the new pulleys onto the shafts. Place a long straight edge against the sides of both pulleys to make sure they’re aligned.

4. Install the set screws, torquing them to 15 ft-lbs.

5. Reinstall the belt and guards.

Engine Oil

To check the oil, remove the dipstick/filler cap and wipe it clean. Insert it back into the oil filler neck without screwing it in. Check the level on the dipstick. 10W30 is recommended for most operating conditions.

Spark Plug

The spark plug gap should be between 0.02-0.03 inches (0.6-0.7 mm) on Subaru engines and 0.028-0.031 inches (0.70-0.80 mm) on Honda engines. Replace the plug if the electrode is worn or there are signs of cracking or other damage. When installing the plug, start by threading it in by hand to prevent cross-threading. Use a spark plug wrench to seat the plug, then turn another 1/8 to ¼ turn if the plug is used or ½ turn if the plug is new to get a good seal.

Air Filter

To clean the filter on the Honda GX160, wash it in a non-flammable solvent or mild soap and water. Once dry, soak the filter in clean engine oil, then squeeze out any excess.

On Subaru engines, wash the foam element with kerosene or diesel fuel. Soak the cleaned filter in a mix of three parts kerosene to one part diesel and squeeze out any excess fluid. Tap the paper element against a hard surface to remove any surface dust.

Sediment Cup

Shut off the fuel valve, then unscrew the fuel cup, located directly below the fuel valve switch. Clean out any collected sediment, then reinstall. On Honda engines, this cup will have a small O-ring that needs to be fitted to the cup before screwing it back into the carburetor.

Getting Parts for Your Grazor

Billy Goat limits sale of this concrete cleaner to paving dealers, but you can get everything you need for your Grazor at We’re not just a Billy Goat paving dealer, we’re also a certified dealer for Honda Engines and Subaru Power, letting us ship replacements for everything on this equipment. We can have your order delivered to any address in the U.S. or Canada.

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Reciprocating Aeration: The Clear Choice for Productivity

Reciprocating Aeration: The Clear Choice for ProductivityWhy has Billy Goat moved from drum aerators to reciprocating designs? Over years of testing, they found that reciprocating aeration delivers huge productivity benefits. Upgrading to one of these aerators doesn’t just cut job times, it delivers better results and reduces maintenance, helping your bottom line.

Drum Aerators: A Proven Design with Some Major Problems

This type of aerator uses a heavy roller with tines bolted onto the exterior or built into a mechanism to fold out when needed. The roller’s weight to push tines into the ground, limiting hole density of 4-6 holes per square foot. Walk-behind models can be rolled back and forth in the ground to cut more holes in the turf, while stand-on models have to make several passes to fully relieve ground compaction.

Using a drum aerator is awkward. Tines should be disengaged to let the roller move freely for tuning, but since this is difficult, most landscapers simply lift and spin the unit, letting the tines drag against the ground and damage the turf. Manufacturers have come up with solutions including support wheels and split drive systems to make turning easier, but this adds cost and doesn’t completely eliminate the problem.

For large spaces, there are towable aerators like Billy Goat’s AET60. By mounting the tines on swiveling assemblies and using the towing tractor’s three-point hitch to lift the unit when turning, most of the turf damage problems are eliminated. Unfortunately, there’s no way to adapt this design to a machine that is small enough to be used on suburban lawns.

No matter the design, drum aerators are very sensitive to soil moisture. If the soil is too dry, the tines will ride over compacted soil instead of punching into it. If it’s too wet, the weight of the roller can increase compaction, making drainage problems even worse

Reciprocating Aerators: Addressing Issues Head On with Modern Design

Instead of relying on weight, reciprocating aerators use mechanical force, using an engine to drive a cam that pushes the tines into the soil. This allows the tines to cut repeatedly as the aerator is rolled along, getting a hole density with one pass that would require several passes with a drum aerator. Billy Goat took this design a step further with their AE1300H. It has a Variable Aeration Density (VAD) system which controls the speed of the cam, letting it make twice to 10 times as many holes as a drum aerator. This relieves soil compaction with the minimal amount of holes, which means fewer core plugs to clean up.

All reciprocating aerators are lighter than their drum counterparts, reduces compaction. The cam drive also uses fewer tines and makes it easy to disengage, eliminating turf damage when turning.
Soil still needs to be moist, but issues with compaction or penetration are far less likely, getting good results even when the ground isn’t perfectly saturated.

The added density and control don’t just make jobs easier, they greatly decrease operating costs. On average, a reciprocating aerator can get small jobs done in half the time of a walk-behind drum aerator. For larger jobs, adding a chariot or a sulky can give a walk-behind similar performance to a small ride-on drum aerator with a lower upfront cost. Since a reciprocating design doesn’t need side wheels, the unit can be narrow enough to pass through gates without sacrificing performance.

With four or 8 tines to service instead of 30 to 40, cleanup is faster and repairs are less costly. This design also keeps the tines visible, making it easier to avoid sprinkler heads, rocks, and other objects.

Keeping Your Modern Machine Ready to Work

If you’re making the switch to a reciprocating aerator, getting replacement parts is as simple as using your browser. is a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners, letting us offer a complete line of parts for their equipment and the engines that power them. Our site has built in parts diagrams and descriptions to make it easy to find what you need, and we can ship your order to any location in the U.S. or Canada.

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Servicing the Honda GC Series

Servicing the Honda GC Series

The GC 160 may be from Honda’s residential line, but this engine’s low weight and high build quality make it a perfect fit for Billy Goat’s smallest equipment including models from their power rake, blower, and lawn vacuum lines. Want to make sure this engine lasts as long as what it powers? Here’s everything you need to know about maintaining it.

Maintenance Schedule

First month or 5 hours of use: Change the engine oil.
Every three months or 25 hours: Clean the air filter.
Every 6 months or 50 hours: Change the engine oil.
Every year or 100 hours: Check the spark plug and, if equipped, clean the spark arrester.
Every two years or 250 hours: Replace the air filter and spark plug. Check the fuel line for signs of cracks.

Honda recommends having a professional mechanic check the valve clearance and idle speed every 100 hours and clean the combustion chamber every 250 hours.


This engine is designed to run on regular unleaded with an octane rating of 86. Fuel mixtures should be no more than 10% ethanol, 5% methanol or 15% MTBE.

Fuel should be used within one month of purchase, or within three months if it has been treated with a stabilizer. Always drain the tank and carburetor before putting the engine into storage.

When filling the tank, never let the fuel level get past the base of the filler neck. Move your equipment at least 10 feet away from where you refueled the engine to prevent ignition of any remaining fumes.


For the operating conditions that your Billy Goat equipment will see, Honda recommends using 10W30 motor oil. 5W30 can also be used, as can SAE 30 above 50°F.

The dipstick is built into the cap for the oil filler neck. To get an accurate reading, the dipstick should be inserted into the neck without screwing it in. When adding oil, the oil should come up to the neck opening.

Oil can be drained by removing the plug bolt below and to the left of the filler neck. Always install a new washer on this bolt when changing the oil to ensure a tight seal. The GC 160 holds 20 oz. Of oil.

Some engines come equipped with Oil Alert. This system will shut off the ignition if the oil level is too low, keeping the engine from running or starting. If your engine fails to start, check the oil level first.

If you accidentally spray the engine in your power washer, change the oil as soon as possible. Oil and water will form a sludge-like emulsion that won’t protect the engine.

Air Filter

To access the filter, press in the tabs on the air box cover and swing it up.

To clean the air filter, tap it against a hard surface to remove any loose dirt. Wipe out the air box with a clean rag before reinstalling. Take care not to brush dirt toward the opening at the base of the box, which leads to the carburetor.

Spark Plug

The plug can be accessed by removing the spark plug cap and unscrewing the plug with a plug wrench. The spark plug gap should be between 0.028-0.030 inches (0.70-0.80 mm.) Any deposits should be removed from the plug before checking the gap. If the ceramic has been damaged or the electrode is worn or fouled, the plug needs to be replaced.

Always turn the spark plug by hand when reinstalling to ensure it isn’t cross-threading. Once finger tight, use the plug wrench to turn the spark plug until it seats. From there, turn another 1/8-1/4 of a turn if it’s a used plug or ½ turn if it’s new. This will seal the washer between the head and the plug.

Spark Arrester

Some local fire districts require spark arresters on outdoor equipment, and it’s a good idea to have one if you need to work around dry grass.

Before checking the arrester, let the engine cool for at least a half hour after running to let the exhaust cool off.

Remove the three bolts holding the muffler cover. Remove this cover, then take out the single screw on the side of the muffler tailpipe. The arrester should slide out of the end of the pipe. Use a wire brush to remove any deposits. Over time, cracks and holes can develop in the arrester’s screen. If this happens, it should be replaced.

Getting the Parts You Need for Your Billy Goat isn’t just a certified Billy Goat dealer, we’re also a dealer for Honda Engines. This lets us provide you with everything you need for your equipment from air filters to impeller bolts. Our site has built-in factory diagrams and descriptions for everything we sell, making it easy to find exactly what you need. We can ship your order to any address in the United States or Canada.

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Servicing the Honda GX Series

Servicing the Honda GX Series

From pressure washer to debris loaders, if Billy Goat makes it, they offer it with a Honda GX-Series engine. Here’s what you need to know to ensure this engine delivers reliable service.

Maintenance Schedule

Before each use: Check the engine oil level and air filter.

First month or 20 hours: Change the engine oil

Every three months or 50 hours: Clean the air filter

Every 6 months or 100 hours: Change the oil, clean the sediment cup, check the spark plug and clean the spark plug arrester.

Every year or 300 hours: Replace the paper air filter and spark plug.

Every two years: Check the fuel tube.

On models with a reduction gear, the gear oil level should be checked before each use and replaced at the same time as the engine oil.

Honda recommends bringing the engine in for service every 6 months or 100 hours to clean the fuel tank and filter, and every year or 300 hours to check the idle speed and valve clearance.


This engine is designed to run on unleaded with an octane rating of 86 or higher and up to 10% ethanol, 5% methanol or 15% MTBE. Fuel should be used within one month of purchase or three months if treated with a stabilizer. The tank should never be filled past the top of the strainer in the filler neck. If your engine’s tank doesn’t have this filter, only fill the tank within one inch of the top.

Light pinging is normal under heavy loads, but if it’s persistent, consider switching to a different gasoline.


To check the oil, remove the oil filler cap and wipe off the dipstick. Insert the dipstick without screwing it back into the filler neck.

To change the oil, remove the bolt at the base of the engine just to the left of the filler neck and let the used oil flow collect into a container for recycling. Add new oil until it reaches the top of the neck.

Billy Goat aerators have a reduction gear built into the side of the engine. The oil should reach the top of the oil check bolt on the side of the case. To change the oil, let the engine warm up. Shut off the engine, remove the check bolt, and tilt the engine forward to drain out the old oil. Add fresh oil through the filler bolt hole in the top of the case until it reaches the check bolt hole.

Honda recommends using 10W30 in the engine and gear case for most operating conditions.

Air Filter

To access the filter elements, remove the wing nut on the top of the air cleaner cover, followed by the cover and a second wing nut.

To clean the outer foam element, wash it in water and a mild detergent, or soak it in a non-flammable solvent. Once dry, soak the foam in clean engine oil and squeeze out any excess.

To clean the foam element, knock it against a hard surface to remove any loose dirt.

Before reassembly, wipe out any dust that has gathered on the base or cover of the air cleaner. Make sure there is a gasket fitted to the base of the cleaner where the air enters the carburetor.

Spark Plug

To access the spark plug, disconnect the plug cap and unscrew the plug with a 13/16 inch plug wrench.

The spark plug gap should be between 0.028 and 0.031 inches (0.70-0.80 mm.) Replace the plug is the electrode is worn or the plug is damaged or fouled.

Thread the plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with the plug wrench. Once the plug seats, turn another 1/8-1/4 turn if it was used, or ½ turn if the plug is new. Reinstall the spark plug cap.

Sediment Cup

This cup is located directly below the fuel valve and to the right of the carburetor drain bolt. To remove, turn the fuel valve off, then unscrew the cup. Pour out the gas and debris into a suitable container and remove any remaining residue with a non-flammable solvent. When reinstalling, make sure the o-ring is fitted to the lip of the cup.

Spark Arrester

A spark arrester may be required in some locations to meet local fire safety regulations and can be added to any engine.

Remove the four screws holding the protector onto the muffler, along with two screws holding the exhaust deflector onto the muffler. Remove these pieces and slide the arrester out of the muffler opening.

Clean off any deposits with a wire brush. If there are holes or cracks in the spark arrester, it should be replaced.

Getting Parts for Your Billy Goat’s Engine is a certified dealer for Billy Goat and Honda Engines so you can get everything you need for your Billy Goat equipment from one source. We can ship anything you need to any address in the United States or Canada.

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Getting Your Pressure Washer Out of Storage

Getting Your Pressure Washer Out of Storage

Temperatures are rising, and that means it’s time to pull out your Billy Goat pressure washer and put it back to work. Here’s what you need to do to get it ready for the season from setting up the engine to cleaning the antifreeze out of the pump.

Checking for Leaks

Before you move your pressure washer, look underneath it for signs of leaks from the engine. If you loaded the pump with antifreeze before storing, it’s normal to have a drop or two of residue from escaped fluid. However, an empty pump indicates seal problems that may warrant a rebuild.

Pressure Washer Inspection

Inspect the high-pressure hose, detergent siphon hose, spray gun and detergent filter for damage. If there are cracks in the high-pressure hose or damage to the gun, they must be replaced before the pressure washer is used. Even minor weaknesses can let water escape, creating dangerous leaks.

Examine the inlet screen that fits over the port for the garden hose. If it has holes or signs of cracking, it needs to be replaced.

Any dust buildup should be wiped off of the pressure washer. Never use the pressure washer to clean the engine: the force can push water into the crankcase, where it will mix with the oil. This creates an emulsion that will not lubricate internal components, leading to premature damage.

Tire Pressure

Air will leak out of your pressure washer’s tires over time, and after months sitting in storage, they’re probably flat. Airing them up before moving your equipment will make the washer easier to roll and keep the bead from separating from the rim. The tires only need enough air to support the weight of the engine and pump, which is well below the 20 or so PSI maximum rating of the tires. In most cases, 5-8 psi is plenty to get your equipment rolling.

Engine Oil

If the oil wasn’t changed before storage, it should be changed now. While the engine hasn’t been used, prolonged storage can lead to the breakdown of even lightly used oil.

Pump Oil

Leakage and moisture contamination is possible during long-term storage. Check the pump to ensure the oil is clear and at the correct level.

Both CAT Pumps and Annovi Reverberi make oil specifically for their pumps to deliver maximum protection. Non-detergent SAE 30 oil can also be used in pumps from both manufacturers, but it will need to be changed more often as it will break down faster.


If you stored your equipment correctly, you filled the pump with either “pump saver” antifreeze or RV antifreeze. This can be safely flushed out by operating the pressure washer. RV antifreeze can be safely disposed of in the sewer: operate your washer as usual while spraying into a bucket until the water coming out of the wand is clear. Once the water runs clear, pour the antifreeze collected in the bucket into a sink.

Pump saver antifreeze is biodegradable, but it’s also poisonous and is not safe to flush into the sewer. Instead of spraying the antifreeze into a bucket, spray it over a wide area of turf to prevent it from pooling. This will keep animals from drinking the antifreeze before it has time to decompose. The ethylene glycol and other chemicals in the solution will break down in a few days.

If you’re having trouble with pump performance after using RV antifreeze, you may want to use pump saver when storing your washer, even if it’s just for a few days. This antifreeze includes chemicals that dissolve deposits that can keep the plungers from getting a good seal. Deposit issues are more likely if you live in an area with hard water.

Getting Parts for Your Billy Goat Pressure Washer is more than an online retailer: we’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat, AR, Cat Pumps, Honda and Briggs & Stratton. This lets us offer OEM parts for everything on your Billy Goat equipment. Our site lets you search for parts based on your model, and you can see factory parts diagrams and descriptions so you can be sure you’re ordering exactly what you need. We can ship your order to any address in the U.S. or Canada.

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Getting Your Aerator Out of Storage

Getting Your Aerator Out of Storage

Winter is on its way out, and that means a fresh start on lawn care. Here’s what you need to check when getting your Billy Goat aerator out of storage so you can break up compaction caused by snowfall and prepare turf for reseeding and repair this spring.

Before You Begin

Before you move your aerator, stop to take a look at the ground where it was stored. If you see oil or fluid leaks, trace them to the machine so you can fix them later.


If the aerator was stored with fuel, it needs to be drained and replaced with fresh fuel, even if the gas was treated. Use a siphon to remove gas from the tank. Honda engines have a drain plug on the debris cup, located directly below the engine controls. Remove this plug, then open the fuel valve to drain the remaining fuel into a suitable container. On Briggs & Stratton engines, simply run the engine to burn off the remaining fuel.

Gasoline should be used within one month of its purchase, or three months if it has been treated with a stabilizer. Fuel injection systems have no problem burning fuel that’s too old for your aerator’s engine, so it can be safely used in your car or truck.

Check the fuel cap for debris build-up, making sure the holes on the top are clean. This lets air in as gas enters the fuel line and carburetor.


The oil level in a Honda engine should be checked by inserting the filler cap/dipstick without screwing it in, while the dipsticks on Briggs & Stratton engines should be fully inserted. 5W-30 or 10W-30 is recommended for most operating conditions.

Honda engines come with their “Oil Alert” system, which will disable the ignition if the oil level is too low. If you’re having starting problems, it’s a good idea to check the oil level to make sure this system hasn’t been activated.

On some models, the engine has a reduction gear inside a large case on the side of the motor. The reduction gearbox uses the same oil as the engine.


The drive chain should be coated with non-detergent SAE 30 oil. This chain is almost fully protected from debris, but if there are signs of dirt, it can be cleaned off using a solvent like a chain degreaser or brake cleaner. Try to avoid any contact between these solvents and painted parts on the aerator. Once dry, a new coat of oil can be applied.

Hydrostatic Transmission

The transmission is maintenance free, but it’s still a good idea to check the seals around the axles for leaking hydraulic fluid. If there are signs of seepage, the transmission needs to be serviced or replaced.

Tire pressure

The recommended tire pressure will be written on the sidewall. For walk-behind aerators, this is typically 8.5 psi.

Tine Inspection

Make sure the reel is clear of debris and check the general condition of the tines: they should be replaced after they’ve worn down one inch, even if they still cut through the soil. Check the tightness of the bolts holding the tines onto the reel.


Check the belts for cracking that may have occurred in storage. On AE-series aerators, the belt can be accessed by unbolting the top cover next to the engine.


Check the grease on the cam bearings, shaft bearings, and wheel bearings: if there is no grease visible along the edges, or the grease is dirty, it should be replaced with new lithium grease. Always clean the Zerk fitting before pushing new grease into a bearing.

Towable Aerators

These trailers may not have engines and drive systems, but there are a few areas that should be inspected before you put them to work:

With the tines in the raised position, chock the wheels and lubricate the grease fittings on the bearings using a grease gun. Billy Goat recommends standard lithium grease.

Check the tine reel nut torque. It should be set to 100 ft-lbs. Check all tine bolts for tightness.

Check the tire pressure. The recommended pressure will be stamped on the sidewall.

Examine the water tanks for signs of leaks or cracks.

Getting Parts for Your Aerator is a certified dealer for Billy Goat, Hydro-Gear, Honda Engines and Briggs & Stratton so we can supply you with parts for everything on your aerator no matter where you are in the U.S. or Canada. Not quite sure what you need? Our site can show you exploded diagrams and factory descriptions of parts specifically for your model so you can see exactly what you’re ordering.

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