Setting Up and Using the DL 13 Debris Loader


Did you just pick up a Billy Goat DL 13 debris loader? Do you feel like you aren’t getting the best use out of your machine? This guide will help you get your new loader ready to use out of the box and avoid problems with clogging and performance.

Mounting the Loader

This loader must be mounted before assembly to keep it stable. The DL 13 has 6 holes in its skid mount designed to be used with 3/8 inch diameter bolts with washers and lock nuts. These holes are on the left and right sides of the mount. The loader can be bolted down directly to a trailer or truck bed, or it can be used with Billy Goat’s kits to attach the loader on a hitch receiver or tailgate.

Setting Up the DL 13

All hardware needed to install the boom, exhaust elbow and hose can be found packed in a bag with the owner’s manual.

1. Attach the hose to the housing intake using a quick clamp. The hose and clamp need to go around the intake and the shut-off switch.

2. Use screws and fender washers to attach the handle to the nozzle. Attach the nozzle to the hose using a hose clamp.

3. Attach the hose boom by sliding it through the ring on the top of the housing. The end of the boom should rest in the cup below this ring.

4. Slide the hose band around the hose, then use cap screws, washers and lock nuts to attach the chain to the band. Connect the other end of the chain to the boom.

5. Attach the exhaust elbow. This part is heavy, so it helps to have a second person on hand to hold the elbow while you install the bolts. Place the elbow on top of the housing chute. Slide the carriage bolts up from the bottom flange through the holes on the top of the housing and the base of the chute. Place washers and knobs on the ends of the carriage bolts, Screw down the lock nuts until the nylock layer splits.

Adjusting the Hose Boom

The chain connecting the boom and hose strap should run straight up and down, and the hose between the strap and the intake housing should be parallel to the ground. This gives debris a straight shot to the impeller, reducing the chance of a clog. To adjust the height, connect the attachment links on the boom and strap to a different part of the chain.

Adjusting the Chute

Aim the chute so that debris drops into the rear of the bed or container. To rotate the chute, loosen the knobs on top of the outlet and rotate the chute until it’s at the desired angle. Due to the weight of the chute, this is best done with two people.

Getting More Life Out of the Hose

Rotate the hose occasionally so that the opening is in a different position over the intake and shut off switch. When using the loader, keep the hose as straight as possible, and avoid scraping the nozzle against the ground. This will reduce wear and help prevent clogs.

Clearing Clogs

In most cases, stretching out the hose to give debris a straight shot to the impeller is enough to clear a clog. Shut off the engine before clearing hose clogs by hand.

If there is a clog inside the impeller, shut off the engine and disconnect the spark plug before removing the intake cover. If the motor seems jammed, there may be a major clog inside the impeller housing.


Excessive vibration: Either the impeller or engine are out of balance. Inspect the impeller for damage or clogged debris.

Poor vacuum performance: Keep the nozzle slightly above debris, not in them. This lets the loader draw in air with the debris, maintaining flow. Check the loader for clogs.

Engine won’t start: Make sure the hose is clamped down over the shut-off switch. Check the engine start/stop switch. Make sure there’s plenty of fresh fuel inside the gas tank and check the spark plug connection. A dirty air filter can also cause starting problems.

Engine is locked: Check the impeller for damage or clogs.

Get the Parts and Accessories You Need for Your Loader

Need to add an extension to the chute or replace a worn hose? has everything you need. We’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their engine partners, letting us offer OEM replacements for everything on our equipment. We can ship whatever you need to any address in the United States or Canada.

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Getting the Most from Your Debris Loader

Billy Goat Debris Loader

Using a piece of power equipment just to move leaves a few feet sounds crazy, but it can save you a lot of time and money on fall lawn care jobs. These tips will help you get the best use from your Billy Goat debris loader so you can pick up leaves for disposal quickly and effectively.

Why Use a Loader?

When you have workers to pay, time is money. Raking up leaves and dropping them into a trailer is back-breaking and labor intensive, making fall cleanup time-consuming. Even if you have access to a front loader, the last of the leaves will always need to be picked up by hand. A debris loader vacuums leaves and lawn clippings, picking up everything whether you have a big pile or a few leftover leaves keeping the lawn from being spotless.

The cost savings don’t stop there. Billy Goat’s Piranha blades have serrated edges that tear and break up debris as they first pass into the loader, where they’re broken down further by more serrated edges on the impeller. This compacts lawn waste, letting you carry more, spend less on disposal fees or use debris directly in compost piles.


All Billy Goat debris loaders have a skid mount that can be attached to a variety of mounting equipment.

DL 12, 13 15 and 18 models can be used with a hitch mount. This is perfect for dumping leaves into the back of a light-duty pickup. When it’s time to dump the load, a hinge lets the loader swing out of the way. If you still want to tow a trailer, Billy Goat also makes a mount that fits over the tailgate, keeping the hitch free. The loader’s skid mount can also be mounted directly to a trailer, letting you bring it along with your equipment. This can be done with any loader model.

DL 25 and 35 loaders can be fitted to a DOT-approved trailer. This is great for using with both light and heavy-duty trucks.

Billy goat offers horizontal and vertical extensions and both deflector and hose attachments for the end of the chute to get the leaves exactly where you want them. A 360-degree swiveling mount lets you move the chute out of the way when you need to access the trailer or bed.

When setting up your loader’s chute, the debris should fall at the end of the container that’s furthest from the loader. As the space fills up, the debris will gradually fall closer to the loader, filling up the container with minimal intervention.

Using the Intake

Use a sweeping motion to pick up debris. For the best performance, air needs to be drawn in with the leaves. Keep the end of the nozzle a little above the area you’re cleaning.

To avoid clogs, adjust the chain connecting the hose band to the boom so that the hose is running parallel to the ground.

Removing Clogs

If the clog is inside the intake hose, pull the hose out in a straight line. The suction from the impeller will usually dislodge the clogged material. More problematic clogs can be removed by hand after shutting off the engine and waiting for the impeller to stop spinning.

If the clog is somewhere else in the loader, shut off the engine and let the impeller come to a complete stop. Disconnect the spark plug wires. If your loader has an electric starter, disconnect the battery. At this point, the intake housing can be unbolted from the loader to clean out the impeller, or the chute can be unbolted to remove trapped debris. Keep in mind that both parts are very heavy and will require at least two people to move.

Using the Interlock System

Billy Goat’s loaders have a large black switch on the top of the intake that will ground the engine’s electrical system when open. This shuts off the engine if the intake hose falls off of the intake housing. When installing the hose, make sure the clamp goes over the switch.

Get the Parts and Accessories You Need for Your Debris Loader

When you need something for your Billy Goat equipment, visit We’re an authorized dealer for Billy Goat and their engine partners, so we’re able to offer OEM replacements for everything on your loader as well as the accessories you need to use it with your truck or trailer. We can ship your order to any address in the USA or Canada.

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Tips for Fall Lawn Care

Tips for Fall Lawn Care

Your grass may not be growing as fast as it was in the spring and summer, but it’s still important to take care of it. These tips will help you keep your lawn green longer, get the grass in shape to survive the winter and prevent common problems with weeds and mold.

Keep Watering and Mowing

In most parts of the country, precipitation and humidity decrease through the fall, requiring more water to keep your lawn healthy. Continue watering until temperatures dip below 40ºF or there’s snow coverage.

Grass growth will slow as temperatures drop, but it still needs to be kept at a healthy height. By late fall, your lawn may only need to be mowed once every two or three weeks with the final mow. At the end of the season, mow your lawn as short as possible without cutting into crowns. This keeps moisture from collecting after snowfalls that can lead to root damage and snow mold.

Stop Broadleaf Weeds

Broadleaf varieties like dandelions and white clover are some of the hardest weeds to tackle, and they can take up water and sunlight that can be better used to prepare your grass for winter. Early fall is a perfect time to apply herbicides with most formulas working best when temperatures are consistently above 60ºF. To find the right herbicide for your lawn, contact your local extension office: they’ll know what works best for weeds in your area, and what chemicals are legal for use. Be sure to treat weeds at least two to three weeks before overseeding to keep the herbicide from affecting grass growth.


Thatch can provide useful ground cover, but too much can choke your lawn and cause problems with the root system. Thatch should be removed if it’s over a half-inch thick. For the best results, use a power rake to lift the thatch out of the grass, then pick it up with a lawn vacuum. This process is hard on grass, so expect your lawn to look scraggly for a week or two as it recovers.

If you have buildup issues, it can probably be resolved by changing your lawn care strategy. Thatch is caused by too much nitrogen in the soil, too much watering, soil compaction and excessive use of fungicides. Mulching grass seems like it would add to the problem, but it actually decreases thatch by providing microorganisms with easy-to-digest food. This boosts their population, letting them eat woodier plant parts faster.


Aerating breaks up surface soil, relieving compaction. This lets water and air penetrate the soil, keeping your grass healthy. Aerating is a must after construction projects, and is a good idea every couple of years if you have heavy foot traffic on your lawn. Clay soils are more susceptible to compaction and may require more frequent aerating. Good drainage won’t just help your lawn grow, it will help snow melt drain off, preventing snow mold.

Core tines will deliver the best results, but the cores left behind need to be dried out and broken up by a mower. Spike tines can compact the soil around the holes they create, but they won’t leave unsightly cores.


Grass growth may slow down, but the root system is just as active as it was in the spring. Applying fertilizer toward the end of fall will give your lawn the boost it needs to store nutrients for the winter.

Most fall fertilizer formulas have added nitrogen to boost growth, but you’ll get better results if you get a soil test a couple weeks beforehand and apply a fertilizer mixed to provide exactly what your lawn needs.

Plant Cool Season Grasses

Overseeding with cool season varieties like tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass will keep your lawn growing longer. Ideally, the lawn should be seeded after dethatching and aerating to get maximum ground contact and before fertilizing to give the seeds maximum access to nutrients.

Remove Leaves

Leaf buildup blocks sunlight and causes moisture to build up, encouraging fungi growth. Frequent mowing with a mulching mower, but major accumulation needs to be removed. Billy Goat’s lawn vacuums and truck loaders shred leaves to compact them, helping turn them into mulch and saving money on disposal fees.

Keep Your Equipment Ready for Fall Lawn Care

No matter what Billy Goat equipment you end up using this season, you can get the parts you need to maintain it from We’re an authorized dealer for Billy Goat and their manufacturing partners including Honda Engines and Briggs & Stratton, making us your one-stop for everything on your aerator, overseeder, loader or power rake. We ship across the US and Canada.

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Billy Goat’s New Text to Video Program

Billy Goat’s New Text to Video Program

Rental equipment sees hard use no matter the user, but a lot of problems can be traced to operator error. Billy Goat is trying to change that with their new Text to Video program. By texting a keyword to a number clearly printed on the machine, the operator will be sent a short video detailing everything they need to know to get started. This makes equipment easier to use for inexperienced renters and helps avoid misuse that can shorten the life of equipment.

How Does it Work?

The instructions and the keyword for the specific piece of equipment are clearly printed either on the operator’s position or at the controls. The user texts this word to 33988. They are then sent a link to a short instructional video for the equipment.

What’s Covered in the Video?

All videos touch on three main topics:

1. Starting the engine
2. Operating the machine
3. Tips for using the machine

For example, if the user has a NextGen Sod Cutter in front of them, they’ll see a tag that instructs the operator to text “SOD” to Billy Goat’s T2V number. When they text the number, the system replies with a link to a YouTube video hosted by Billy Goat’s communications manager, Gail Trudeau. In the video, Trudeau goes over the following topics:

The safety equipment needed — Gloves and safety glasses

-How to start the engine — Pointing out the location of the run switch, choke, and starter handle, as well as when to use the choke

-How to adjust cutting depth — Pointing out diagram for depth settings on the cutter, and how to set the pin that determines depth

-How to engage the cutting blades

-Using the levers on the handle to engage the hydrostatic drive in forward and reverse

-Locking and unlocking the rear caster wheel for straight and curved cuts

All of this is covered in about 90 seconds. There’s no intro or graphics, just the basic information the operator needs to get started. While by no means comprehensive, this is enough for a novice to start using a piece of equipment. It also shows exactly where on the machine the operator can find easy-to-miss items like the choke and caster wheel lock. For 95% of rental users, this gives them everything they need to know.

Who Can Use this Tool?

The user doesn’t have to download a separate Billy Goat app, and the video can be viewed on any smartphone using the YouTube app or any modern HTML5-compatible web browser. That means it will work with virtually every smartphone on the market.

What isn’t Covered?

Troubleshooting and in-depth use information are left out. Users will still need to refer to a manual if the equipment isn’t delivering the results they expect, or if the engine doesn’t want to run.

When Will T2V Be Available?

The first equipment to get this feature was the Next Gen Hydro-Drive 18” Sod Cutter in mid-2017. Success with this pilot program has led the company to start rolling it out onto other models this year. Currently, videos are available for several overseeder, dethatcher, aerator, blower, and vacuum models. Debris loaders and the Grazor crack cleaner are not yet covered.

Can I Get Parts for My Billy Goat Using My Smartphone?

Whether you’re on your phone or your computer, you can go to to get everything you need for your Billy Goat equipment. We’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat and their partners including Honda, Subaru, and Briggs & Stratton, so we’re able to have anything you may need delivered to your door. Our search engine can even narrow down parts choices based on your model and serial number, and it will show you factory diagrams and descriptions, making it easy to find what you need. We ship across the USA and Canada.

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Servicing Your Overseeder

Billy Goat Overseeder

Is your overseeder not moving or cutting soil like it should? Whether you own an OS800 or the recently updated OS500, this guide will help you keep the belts and blades in top condition so you can get the performance you expect from your Billy Goat equipment.

Maintenance Schedule

Every Use: Check the oil and clean the air filter.
Every 25 hours of operation: Inspect the overseeder for loose or damaged parts, inspect the belt, grease the reel bearings and oil the height adjustment linkage

Before attempting any repairs, make sure the engine is cool and disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent accidental starts. If the engine has a fuel valve, make sure it’s closed.

Inspecting Flail and Slicing Blades

Lean the overseeder back onto its handles and secure it by tying the handles down or supporting the wheels. Inspect the blades for wear. Replace any bent or cracked blades immediately.

If a flail blade is less than 3.25 inches long or a slicing blade is less than three inches long on the OS500, it needs to be replaced. If a slicing blade on the OS900 is less than 6.75 inches long, it needs to be replaced. Billy Goat recommends replacing all blades at once.

Replacing the Drive Belt (OS500)

For this repair, you’ll need a ½ inch socket, a ratcheting wrench and a socket extension.

1. Lean the overseeder back onto its handles and secure it by tying the handles down or supporting the wheels.
2. Remove the 7 lock nuts holding the belt and shaft guards to the overseeder. The height adjust lever needs to be lowered to reach some of these nuts. Remove the guards.
3. Walk the old drive belt out of the groove on the reel pulley and pull it out. Slide the new belt over the pulleys.
4. To adjust the new belt, pull the bail to the engaged position and measure the extension of the idler pulley spring. Adjust the clutch cable until the spring stretches 3/4-1 inch when the bail is engaged.
5. Reinstall the belt guard.

Rotating the Flail Blade (OS500)

The flail blades have cutting surface on both the front and back. Rotating these blades periodically spreads out wear for a longer blade life. To do this, you’ll need ½ inch and 9/16 inch sockets, a ratcheting wrench and a socket extension.

1. Follow the directions in “Replacing the Drive Belt” to remove the guards and drive belt.
2. Remove the bearings by unscrewing the four lock nuts and washers holding them to the frame.
3. Slide the reel down and out of the machine.
4. Slide the capscrew, lock washer, reel pulley, key and spacer off of the reel. Flip the reel around and install these parts on the other reel end.
5. Reassemble the reel and belts by following the previous instructions in reverse order.

Reel Belt Replacement (OS900 Series)

1. Remove the two screws holding the belt guard in place.
2. Walk the old belt out of the pulley while rotating the reel to push it out.
3. Walk the new belt over the pulley while rotating the reel to draw it on.
4. Push the reel drive lever and make sure the idler pulley puts enough tension on the belt to fully engage the blades and keep the belt tight against the other pulleys. If it’s loose, adjust the drive lever cable.
5. Reinstall the belt cover.

Replacing the Engine and Mule Belts (OS900)

1. Lift up the overseeder so that the wheels are off of the ground.
2. Remove the rear right tire followed by the spring connecting the housing and the frame.
3. Remove the belt guard by taking out the three screws holding it onto the overseeder.
4. Remove the mule guard by taking out the four screws holding it onto the overseeder.
5. Pull the mule belt away from the drive pulley, down the mule shaft and around the mule pulley.

You can follow steps 1-5 to install a new mule belt. If you’re replacing the engine belt, follow steps 6-11:

6. Move the mule assembly away from the overseeder.
7. Unscrew the carriage bolt holding the right bearing holding up the jackshaft.
8. Remove the three screws holding on the jackshaft belt guard. Remove the guard.
9. Slide the old belt away from the crankshaft pulley, then over the jackshaft and mule drive pulley. Install the new belt, sliding it over the mule drive pulley, jackshaft and crankshaft pulley.
10. Reinstall the mule drive and belt. Engage the drive lever and check the drive belt tension. If it’s loose, the idler arm spring needs to be replaced.
11. Reassemble by following the previous instructions in reverse order.

Get the Parts You Need to Keep Your Equipment Running is an authorized dealer for Billy Goat, Honda Engines and Subaru Power, so you can get parts for your entire overseeder from one place. We ship across the USA and Canada.

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Billy Goat Overseeders

Preparing Your Overseeder For Spring

With fall underway, it’s time to lay down cool season grasses to keep lawns looking lush. Whether you’re a homeowner, professional landscaper or equipment renter, Billy Goat has an overseeder to help you get the job done.


Built for landscapers and rental customers, the OS500 series is lightweight and simple to operate. Billy Goat’s Auto Drop system engages the seeder and the blades together, so it only lays down seed when the machine is being used. Instructions are printed on the lid of the seed box for setting drop rates, making it easy for owners and renters to lay down the right amount of seed. Its 25 lb. capacity is enough to seed ¼ to ½ an acre of bare soil or overseed about one acre of turf.

The wheels have large pneumatic tires and are mounted on ball bearings, reducing the shocks that reach the handle and making this machine easier to push. When it’s time to store or transport this overseeder, the handle can be folded down without having to use tools or unscrew wing nuts. Maintenance is easy, too. The steel drive pulleys and belt are mounted on the side of the machine under a single steel guard, making them easy to access, and the depth adjustment is infinite to spread wear across the blades for a longer service life. Total reel width is 20 inches.

Unless you’re seeding bare soil, the lawn needs to be dethatched to get maximum contact between the dirt and the seeds. Instead of buying a separate dethatcher, a spring tine reel can be added, letting you do every step of overseeding with one machine.

Billy Goat offers this overseeder with a choice of either a Briggs & Stratton Vanguard or Honda GX engine.


This model is listed as a power rake, but for all intents and purposes, it’s an OS500 without the seed box. Kits are available to turn it into an overseeder or a dethatcher. Without these add-ons, this rake only weighs around 100 lbs. This makes it a great compliment to an overseeder, allowing landscapers to clear thatch ahead of seeding.


Need to cover a lot of ground with less effort? The OS900 series comes with a hydrostatic drive, increasing the amount of turf that can be seeded per hour while being comfortable enough to use all day long.

The OS 900 has been around a while, but new features make this model easier to use than before. This starts with a new blade design that lasts longer thanks to an improved coating process, and a new blade profile that reduces thatch pickup. Like the OS552, it has infinite height adjustment, which is now set using a foot-actuated adjuster for quick changes when transitioning between turf areas. The slicing reel is built into floating mounts for maximum soil contact on lawn contours. This reel is 22 inches wide, so letting the OS900 cut and seed a slightly wider area than the OS552 with each pass.

The agitator at the bottom of the 30 lb. seed box is driven by the front axle, keeping it separate from the drive system while removing the maintenance and slippage issues of belt and tire-on-tire drive systems. Like the OS500 series, it has an auto drop system that starts and stops with reel engagement. Dual belts increase drive efficiency and belt life.

The OS900 is currently available with a Honda GX or a Subaru EX engine. The Subaru version may be pulled from production soon as Subaru has shut down their small engine division, but parts and support have already been transferred to an outside company.


Billy Goat covers their overseeders for one year of commercial use. Honda and Vanguard engines are covered by their manufacturers for three years, while Industrial Power Products guarantees the Subaru EX engine for 5 years.

Getting Parts and Accessories for Billy Goat Overseeders is an authorized dealer for Billy Goat as well as Honda Engines and Subaru Power, so we’re able to carry everything you need to maintain or upgrade your overseeder. Select your model and serial number, and our site will show you parts compatible with your equipment listed with both factory descriptions and parts diagrams. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

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Installing a Hose Kit on Your Lawn Vacuum


A lawn vacuum can make quick work of leaf cleanup on lawns, but it can also be handy for cleaning out landscape features, fences and bushes by using a hose attachment. Billy Goat includes a hose with KV, MV and QV vacuums, but you can also add one to your LB or TKV vacuum using their kit. Here’s what you need to do to install it.

Before You Begin

Disconnect the spark plug to prevent an accidental start, and chock the wheels to keep the vacuum from rolling.

You will need three tools needed to install this kit:

— A 5/16 inch nut driver or socket and ratchet
— Two 7/16 inch wrenches

Make sure your kit includes the following:

— A hose with a handle and metal nozzle attached to one end
— Two hose clamps
— A plastic coupler
— A hose holder
— A blocking plate
— A hose nozzle bracket

This kit may seem light on fasteners, but that’s because it’s designed to reuse hardware already installed on your vacuum.

Installing the Nozzle Wear Guards

Raise the nozzle to its highest position.

The left and right sides of the nozzle each have a pair of bolts, nuts, and washers holding on the reinforcement bracket. Remove these parts.

Push the included wear guards into place on the sides of the nozzle with the bolt holes going inside the nozzle lip. Reinstall the bolts, nuts, and washers.

Installing the Hose Nozzle Bracket

The bracket is universal, but its position will vary depending on your model and engine. Billy Goat builds the top of the vacuum with two extra long screws designed to clamp down on the deck while holding the bracket. These screws are always on the muffler side of the engine. Here’s where you’ll find them.

All TKV vacuums: One screw is directly to the left of the engine, while the other is behind and to the left of the engine.

Honda: One screw is directly to the left of the engine, while the second screw is behind the first screw.

Briggs & Stratton: One screw is directly to the right of the engine, while the other is behind and to the right of the engine.

To install, remove these screws, set the bracket over the holes, and put the screws back into the vacuum.

Installing the Hose Holder

The ends of this bracket fit into a pair of holes mid-way up the handle. Insert one side of the bracket into one of the holes, then pull the bracket over until the other end slides into the handle. The top edge of the bracket should face away from the bag.

Installing the Hose

Slide the two hose clamps onto the end of the hose. Slide the hose over the side of the coupler that doesn’t have any pins. Tighten down the hose clamps over the hose and coupler using the nut driver.

Remove the screw on the top of the hose opening plug, located on the front of the vacuum nozzle. Slide off the plug. Slide the coupler into the hose opening at an angle, lining up the outer pin with the slot. Once the front of the coupler is in, rotate it to line up the second pin with the slot and push it in. Once the coupler sits flush with the opening, it’s secure.

Wrapping the Hose

Run the hose around the intake side of the engine and over the hose holder. Slide the metal nozzle onto the hose nozzle bracket. If everything is in the right place, the hose should not come in contact with the exhaust, which can melt the hose liner.

Using the Blocker Plate

This plate slides into the slots on the nozzle wear guards, blocking the vacuum inlet. This redirects air through the hose. Never install or remove this plate with the engine on. The plate can be snapped onto the hose holding bar when not in use.

Get Everything You Need for Your Billy Goat Straight From Your Browser is a certified Billy Goat dealer, so we carry the OEM parts and accessories you need for your equipment including hose kits for their vacuums. Browse our accessories section to find what you need, or use our search engine to find parts and accessories designed to fit your specific model. We can ship your order anywhere in the U.S. or Canada.

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Fixing the Tires and Wheels on Your Equipment

New Billy Goat F10 Force II Wheeled Blower

Between flats, flat spots and squeaks, there’s a lot that can happen to your Billy Goat’s wheels and tires to keep you from getting your work done. How can you solve these problems, and what can you do to prevent them?

Protecting Your Wheels and Tires

When storing your equipment, place it on top of a sheet of cardboard. This reduces heat transfer between the tire and the cement that can damage the rubber.

Check the tire pressure at least once a week and air up tires monthly while your equipment is in storage. The recommended pressure printed on the sidewall.

Keep bearings and axles lubricated with quality waterproof grease. Even if the wheel rolls smoothly, replacing the grease each season will force out dirt that can wear down contact surfaces.

Maintenance on Solid, Semi-Pneumatic and Foam-Filled Tires

These tires are maintenance free. Both foam-filled and semi-pneumatic tires have air in them, but this air is in sealed chambers, so they can’t leak unless they’re damaged. Hate airing up your pneumatic tires? Billy Goat offers foam-filled replacements for some small tires, including those used on the front of their Force blowers.

Finding a Leak

Air up the tire and spray some soapy water on it. The leak will form soap bubbles.

If there’s a small leak is in the tire tread, it can be repaired using a flat kit. Remove any debris stuck in the leak, then use the reamer tool to create a smooth opening. Insert the plug using the included tool and cut off the end so it sits flush with the tire. Some kits include a glue that needs to be applied before inserting the plug.

If the leak is in the sidewall or it’s too big to be sealed with a patch, the tire should be replaced.

If the leak is coming from inside the valve stem, replace the core. Let the air out of the tire, then use a core tool to unscrew the old valve stem core and replace it with a new one. If the leak is coming from the outside of the valve stem, the stem needs to be replaced. Separate the tire from the bead, then cut away the back side of the old stem to remove it from the rim. Lubricate the new stem with some soapy water and use a four-way valve tool to pull the stem through the rim.

Removing Drive Wheels

Start by lifting your equipment high enough to raise the tire off of the ground.

Caster and non-drive wheels are usually held on with a bolt and nut. Pay attention to the placement of any washers when reinstalling the wheel.

Most drive wheels are held on using a cotter pin. Bend the ends of the pin down and pull the pin out. The wheel should now slide off of the axle. If the wheel doesn’t want to budge, apply a penetrating oil and rock the wheel left and right as you pull. When reinstalling the wheel, make sure the key on the inside of the rim lines up with the keyway on the axle. To make removal and installation easier in the future, apply some anti-seize to the shaft.

Removing a Tire from the Rim

Remove the wheel from the equipment. Set the wheel on its side on a flat work surface and let the air out of the tire.

Push down hard on the sidewalls to separate the bead from the rim. Pull one of the beads up past the rim. You can use a pry bar or a flathead screwdriver, but it will be easier on yourself and the wheel if you use a set of tire levers. Hold part of the bead up with one lever while working on the rest of the bead with the other lever. Once you have about half of the bead above the rim, the rest should slide up off of the wheel.

Pull the tire up toward the bead you just pulled and force it off of the rim.

Installing a Pneumatic Tire

Rub some soapy water on the beads. This will help them slip over the rim and make it easier to find the leaks if they don’t want to seat. Work the beads over the rim so that the tire is on the wheel. Air up the tire to seat the beads against the rim. If you’re having trouble getting the bead to mate with the rim, wrap a ratchet strap around the tire tread and tighten it down. As it squeezes on the tire, the sidewalls will be pushed out.

Get the Parts You Need to Keep Your Equipment Moving is a certified Billy Goat dealer, letting us ship OEM parts for your equipment to any address in the U.S. or Canada. Browse our Wheels & Wheel Parts section or use our search engine to see parts for your specific model, complete with factory diagrams and descriptions.

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Selecting the Right Detergent for Your Pressure Washer

Cleaning Buildings with a Pressure Washer Billy Goat

How can you get your Billy Goat power washer to clean effectively? By using the right cleaning chemicals. Which chemicals work best? That depends on what you’re cleaning and where. Here’s what you need to know to find the right soap or detergent for the job.

What Not to Use in Your Pressure Washer

CAT and AR pumps are not designed to handle strong acids and bases including muriatic acid and bleach.

Only use cleaning agents formulated specifically for pressure washers. Other cleaners may be too thick to be drawn through the detergent system, they may foam excessively, or they may be ineffective when applied under pressure.

How Do Cleaning Chemicals Work?

Soaps and detergents are molecules that have one end that attaches to dirt and another that attaches to water. When applied, they latch onto dirt, creating a structure called a “micelle.” The water-bonding ends are facing out from this micelle, allowing the dirt to be removed by being rinsed off.

What’s the Difference Between a Soap and a Detergent?

A soap is a natural product made by reacting fats and oils with a salt. Soaps are always biodegradable, but they can react with calcium in hard water. This creates calcium carbonate, which can leave a film on the surface being cleaned.

Detergents are purely chemical derived and can be formulated for specific types of dirt or to work with different surfaces. Due to their chemical makeup, they don’t react with hard water. These chemicals may or may not be biodegradable.

Most cleaning chemicals designed for pressure washers use some combination of soap and detergent.

What Else Goes into a Cleaner?

Along with soaps and detergents, other chemicals are added to improve performance:

— Vinegar is good for cleaning flat surfaces and acts as a chemical polish for brass and bronze.
— Ammonia cleans glass and stainless steel.
— Citric acid removes stains from concrete and wood.
— Surfactants and other chemicals let the detergent stick to the surface being cleaned so it can react with the dirt.

Do I Need a Specialty Cleaner?

If it’s available, it will do the job better. The active ingredients will bond better with the type of dirt being removed, while other ingredients help the cleaning chemicals reach the dirt, whether it’s on a slick surface or embedded in a porous material.

Should I Get a Residential or Professional Formula?

The main difference between residential and professional chemicals are how they’re packaged. Residential formulas are pre-diluted so they can be used directly by the pressure washer. Professional formulas are full strength and need to be mixed with water to get the right cleaning power and flow to work with the pressure washer.

All residential chemicals should be safe for plants and pets, but some professional chemicals may not
When in doubt, check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) and the product label.

Does it Need to Be Biodegradable?

Storm drains connect directly to waterways, so many cities and towns have laws restricting the use of non-biodegradable cleaning chemicals when they can reach these drains. Even if you aren’t required to use them, biodegradable cleaners are always a good choice for the environment.

Getting Better Performance from Your Detergent

If you aren’t using the low-pressure soap tip and the detergent inlet hose isn’t fully submerged in the detergent, your pressure washer will only spray water. Check these areas when your pressure washer doesn’t seem to be applying any detergent.

Pre-clean the surface you’re working on. By blasting away thick surface accumulation, you’ll let the detergent reach the stains directly.

Check the label for any mention of a dwell time. Most cleaning chemicals work best if they’re allowed to soak in for a few minutes.

Applying soap from the bottom up will reduce streaking.

Get the Parts You Need for Your Pressure Washer doesn’t sell cleaning chemicals, but we do have everything you need to maintain and repair your Billy Goat pressure washer. We’re a certified dealer for Billy Goat as well as the manufacturers they work with to build their pumps including AR, CAT, Honda and Briggs & Stratton. Our search engine can show you parts that fit your specific model as well as factory diagrams and descriptions so you can see exactly what you’re ordering. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

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Maintaining the Briggs & Stratton 675 Series

Briggs & Stratton 675 Series

The Briggs & Stratton 675 Series bridges the gap between the company’s consumer-focused engines and their Vanguard professional line. Over the years, Billy Goat has offered this engine on several of their smaller models including the KV600SP and MV601SPE lawn vacuums. Here’s what you need to know to keep this engine running reliably.

Maintenance Schedule

First 5 hours of operation: Change the oil.
Each day or every 8 hours: Check the oil, and clean the air intake, controls and muffler.
Every 25 hours or annually: Clean the air filter.
Every 50 hours or annually: Change the oil and clean the exhaust.
Annually: Replace the spark plug, air filter, pre-cleaner and fuel filter (if equipped).

Briggs & Stratton recommends cleaning the engine at least yearly so the fins can keep the engine cool, but you may need to clean it more frequently if you work in dusty conditions.


Exhaust components can remain hot up to a half hour after the engine has been used. Make sure these components have cooled completely before working on the engine.

The end of the exhaust will be covered by either a deflector or spark arrester. Remove this part and clean off any carbon buildup with a brush. A spark arrester can be fitted to any 675 Series to meet local fire codes.

Spark Plug

The electrode gap should be 0.20 inches (0.51 mm). When installing the plug, thread it in by hand, then torque it to 180 in-lbs.


The manufacturer recommends changing the oil while the engine is still warm. The engine oil can be drained by removing a plug on the base of the engine, or by tilting the engine and letting the oil pour through the dipstick tube. If you drain the oil from the dipstick tube on this engine, drain the fuel tank first. When you tip your equipment over, fuel in the tank can leak out.

Start by disconnecting the spark plug and removing the dipstick/filler cap.

If you’re draining the oil from the top of the engine, tilt your equipment on its back side with the dipstick tube facing down, letting the used oil flow into a catch can. If you want to drain the oil through the plug, it can be found toward the rear of the engine. The 675-Series holds 18-20 ounces of 10W40 motor oil.

Air Filter

The air filter cover is held closed by a slide lock on top which can be moved left or right to unlatch.

Depending on the version of the engine installed in your equipment, the air filter box will hold either a paper or foam filter element, and it may have a plastic pre-cleaner sandwiched between this element and the airbox cover. Here’s how you clean each part:

Pre-cleaner — Wash in water and a mild detergent and let it dry.

Foam element — Wash in water and a mild detergent. Once dry, soak the foam in clean engine oil and squeeze out any excess.

Paper element – Tap the element against a hard surface to loosen any collected dirt. Do not use pressurized air. This will force dirt into the pores, clogging the filter.

Fuel Filter

If your engine has a fuel filter, it will be fitted to the fuel line between the gas tank and the carburetor. Even if your engine doesn’t have a filter, it’s still a good idea to check the lines from time to time. If cracks are starting to appear, the fuel line should be replaced.

If your engine has a fuel shut off valve, make sure it’s closed. If it doesn’t, drain the fuel tank.

Squeeze the clamps on the sides of the fuel filter to slide them down the fuel line. Pull the lines off of the fuel filter and slide the new filter onto these hoses. Move the clamps back onto the fuel lines over the filter ends.

Engine Cleaning

Use a brush to sweep off dirt accumulation. Never use water directly to clean the engine. Spray from a pressure washer or garden hose can force water inside, contaminating the oil or saturating the intake, leading to engine damage.

Get Everything You Need for Your Billy Goat isn’t just a dealer for Billy Goat, we’re also a certified dealer for their manufacturing partners including Briggs & Stratton and Honda, so we’re able to offer replacements for every part on your equipment. We have factory parts diagrams and descriptions for all of these brands built into our search engine, making it easy to find the part you need, and we can ship your order to any address in the United States or Canada.

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